The Desert Collared Lizard is a ground-dwelling lizard found in arid, rocky grassland and desert habitats across North America. They are distinguished by the two black collars around their neck and have bright orange patches as well as tan, brown and yellow colours along the body and tail. Although extremely active and a joy to watch, they are somewhat skittish and difficult to handle.
Housing
The Desert Collared Lizard is diurnal but very active, jumping, digging and moving freely around the vivarium, so a good-sized stimulating environment is important. A minimum vivarium size of 4 x 2 x 2ft should be used to house a single adult, to enable proper movement as well as thermo-regulation and exercise.
Substrate
For the base of the environment, we recommend a sand mix such as Pro Rep’s Leo Life or Lucky Reptiles Desert Bedding. Your Collared Lizard will not be inclined to eat this substrate as long as the temperature, UVB and supplements are correct. These lizards are typically found in rocky, arid habitats, so a sandy substrate is also more natural.
Decor
The enclosure should be built up with a range of enrichment pieces such as branches, rocks, tunnels, logs and foliage as well as a minimum of two hiding places like caves - though more is recommended. Ensure that there are hiding spots and decor on both the hot and cool sides of your enclosure so your lizard can make use of the whole tank and feel secure. For an even more stimulating habitat that encourages good mental and physical activity try moving decor around every now and then.
Heating and lighting
Being a reptile, you Collared Lizard will not be able to regulate their internal temperatures without an external source so good quality heating, as well as lighting, is vital. Firstly a hot end of 38-42C is needed, alongside a cooler end of around 28C, and including a drop to around 15C overnight to replicate a natural nighttime drop. This can be achieved best with the use of a basking bulb or ceramic bulb, which will need to be controlled with a thermostat. Not all thermostats will reach such a temperature so its important that you check this before purchase. A good example is Microclimate’s Evo Lite. All temperatures can be monitored with an accurate digital thermometer.
Your Collared Lizard will always naturally be exposed to UVB and this is an essential part of equipment in keeping them healthy. As well as boosting their immune systems and overall wellness, UVB is responsible for metabolising key nutrients such as calcium, so being deprived of this can have serious health risks and even prove fatal. You will need a strip UV lighting system such as Arcadia’s 12% T5 unit, though the strength of the bulb will depend on the height of the enclosure. This bulb will be used in a 12-hour cycle, going off at night as the temperatures drop to create good day and night periods. It is important to take note that any UVB has a lifespan of 6 - 12 months depending on the bulb - after which, the bulb may still glow but there will be no UV being emitted so it will need changing.
Humidity
Collared Lizards prefer a humidity of between 40 - 50%, which should easily be reached with little help. The use of moss hides particularly on the cooler side of the tank will provide good opportunity for ease of shedding. Moss can be used in this hide and sprayed to keep moist. The humidity can be read with an accurate digital hygrometer. A small water dish will also need to be placed in the enclosure and cleaned on a regular basis to prevent bacterial build-up.
Your Collared Lizard is an insectivore and so will feed on a good variety of crickets, locusts, cockroaches, Calci-worms and mealworms. Variety is key in providing your lizard with good nutrition as all prey items differ in nutritional value. You will also need to dust the live food with additional calcium, multi-vitamins and D3 in the relevant feeding rota to ensure your lizard gets from its diet everything needed of the body. It is recommended also that live food be 'gut loaded' before being fed to the animal to make them an even better quality meal.
Swell SuperStore Desert Collared Lizard Species Profile:
- Scientific name - Crotaphytus collaris
- Adult Expected Size - 10 - 12 inches
- Habitat - Arid, rocky grasslands and desert habitats of North America. Terrestrial living.
- Required Enclosure Size - 4 x 2 x 2ft
- UV Lighting - 3 - 4 UVI (T5 12% - enclosure height dependent)
- Expected Lifespan - 7 - 10 Years
- Temperature Gradient - 28C - 42C
- Humidity Levels - 40 - 50%
- Feeding - Live food - Crickets, locust, Calci-worms and mealworms
- Handling - They are skittish, prone to bite if threatened and can be difficult to handle.
Desert collared lizard, Crotaphytus collaris, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
The Casque Head Iguana, also known as the Cone Headed Iguana or Basilisk, is a species found in tropical rain forests in Central America. As the name suggests, they have a crown on the top of the head and are usually bright green in colour, with brown stripes running the length of the body into the tail. They have a very long thin tail that can stretch to almost three times the length of the body. This tail is used in balance to enable them in their extremely agile behaviours. Although quick and nimble, they are tolerant of occasional handling.
Housing
The Casque Head Iguana is a very active lizard that requires a lot of space to move around. A minimum of 90 x 45 x 90cm should be provided to house a single adult, although bigger is definitely appreciated. This will provide good opportunity for horizontal movement as well as all-important arboreal habits.
To begin with, your enclosure will need a good quality loose substrate such as soil which will ensure moisture is held and will also provide the option of a live planted terrarium - much more natural and aesthetically pleasing. It’s also a good idea to think about drainage, consisting of a layer of hydro rocks, matting and then your substrate. This will stop the soil from becoming waterlogged and helps aid humidity in the tank by re-using the water that collects in the bottom layers.
Decor
To be sure that your Iguana can make use of the entire enclosure, a lot of decor will need to be added. It is essential that the climbing structure created is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the animal but also that it creates access to the higher portions of the tank, and make heat and UV more accessible. For this, you could use a variety of branches, logs, vines and foliage.
To allow your Iguana to take cover from heat and UV and hide from view, you should also use some of this decor to create sufficient 'off show' areas - for example, dense foliage over a branch to create a hidden area underneath. Being diurnally active, this won’t affect you viewing your Iguana as they still venture out to bask and feed, and they are usually active animals.
Heating and lighting
Heat and UVB are vital elements of any reptile enclosure. For the Casque Head Iguana, you will first require a good heat source - either a basking bulb or ceramic heat emitter are best. Any heat source should be attached to a thermostat for regulation, and safety of the animal. You should also use an accurate digital thermometer for monitoring. This should be placed at the top of the enclosure, facing down as the Iguana would also bask at height.
A temperature of between 30-32C should be maintained in the basking area, with the cooler areas of the tank remaining around 22-25C, allowing your animal to move away from the heat as well as towards it for basking. During the night, you may not need to heat the enclosure, as temperatures can drop to around 15-20C - this mimicking a natural temperature drop experienced by the animals in a wild setting.
Another essential aspect of the enclosure is a good quality UVB light. This will come in the form of a strip bulb such as Arcadia's T5 6% (the strength will depend on the height of the enclosure). This bulb will enable your animal to metabolise key nutrients and use them effectively in the body, as a result, not having this UV can make them extremely ill and even prove fatal. You should use UVB in a 12 hours cycle, going off as the temperature drops. It is also important to note that all UV has a lifespan to be considered, between 6 - 12 months (this again will depend on the bulb and brand). After the lifespan of the bulb is up, the UV will no longer be being emitted, even if the tube is still glowing.
Humidity
Another consideration of this animals environment is the humidity. For Casque Head Iguanas, this should remain between 70 - 90%, measured with an accurate digital hygrometer. To achieve this humidity, the enclosure will require frequent spraying, a good quality, moisture-holding substrate and possibly the addition of a fogger and/or live plants. Another aspect to note is that the Iguana will drink from the water droplets once the terrarium has been sprayed and it is therefore highly recommended that a fountain or dripper is included to ensure that your animal is constantly hydrated. Another good idea is the use of broadleaf plants on which water can collect for them to drink off.
Diet
Your Casque Head Iguana is an insectivore and so will feed on a good variety of small-sized crickets, locust, calci-worms and mealworms. Variety is key in providing your Iguana with good nutrition as all prey items differ in nutritional value. You will also need to dust the live food with additional calcium, multi-vitamins and D3 in the relevant feeding rota to ensure your Iguana gets from everything needed in its diet. It is also recommended that live food be 'gut loaded' before being fed to the animal to make them an even better quality meal.
Swell SuperStore Casque Head Iguana species profile
- Scientific name - Laemanctus serratus
- Adult Expected Size - 8 - 10 inches excluding tail (snout to vent)
- Habitat - Rain forests of Central America. Arboreal living.
- Required Enclosure Size - minimum of 90 x 45 x 90cm
- UV Lighting - 3 - 4 UVI (6% T5 - dependent on the height of the enclosure)
- Expected Lifespan - 7 - 10 Years
- Temperature Gradient - 25 - 32C
- Humidity Levels - 70 - 90%
- Feeding - Insectivores - Mainly live food such as small crickets, locust and worms
- Handling - could be tamed, handling is possible.
Casque head iguana, Laemanctus serratus, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
The Leachianus gecko is an arboreal gecko endemic to New Caledonia, where they inhabit forest habitats. These arboreal geckos are in fact the largest species of gecko in the world. They tend to be a mix of greens, browns and grey in colour. This heavy-bodied gecko has loose, delicate skin so handling although possible should be kept to a minimum to avoid unnecessary stress and skin damage.
If you are looking for an alternative to Leachianus geckos, check out our Leopard gecko care sheet and Crested gecko care sheet.
Housing
Being perfectly built for the trees, your Leachianus enclosure will require a good amount of height and opportunity to climb. A minimum of 90 x 45 x 90cm should house an adult, but they would utilise more space if provided. This will give them adequate opportunity to climb and jump between branches to get sufficient exercise and stimulation.
In order to use the height of the enclosure, it is important to provide a secure structure made up of branches, logs, vines and foliage. It is particularly important to ensure they have adequate access to the top of the tank where the heat and UV will be.
As well as climbing opportunity, it is essential that enough cover is provided to make your gecko feel safe and able to hide from view. This can come in the form of coconut hides, cork bark or areas hidden under dense vegetation. For substrate, it’s best to use a good soil mix, as it will assist in humidity upkeep with its moisture-holding abilities. It will also create an opportunity for live vegetation.
Heating and lighting
Contrary to popular belief these geckos will require good quality heating and UVB - even as a nocturnal/crepuscular animal. Heating is best in the form of a basking bulb or ceramic heat emitter, either of which will need regulating with the relevant thermostat - ensuring the safety of your pet. Temperatures should be measured with an accurate digital thermometer and should sit at 27-28C at the hottest point of the tank. The rest of the tank will sit between 20-25C providing a good gradient.
During the night temperatures can drop to 15C which may not require additional heating. This mimics the natural drop in temperature seen in a wild habitat and creates a day/night cycle. It is also essential that UVB is provided as without it your gecko will not be able to metabolise key nutrients and so development and health is put at risk, even becoming fatal if left.
The best way to provide this is in a strip bulb such as Arcadia’s 7% ShadeDweller or 6% proT5 kit (this depends on the height of the enclosure) which should be used in a 12-hour cycle. All UV bulbs have a lifespan of between 6 - 12 months dependent on the bulb and brand. After the life span is up, the UV is no longer sufficient even if the bulb is glowing so it is vital that replacing it is kept on top of.
Leachianus Geckos come from a humid environment and this should be replicated in your enclosure. To achieve humidity, moisture-holding substrates, regular spraying, foggers and good water sources can be used. Using an accurate digital hygrometer to measure, your humidity should sit between 60-80%.
Your gecko may not drink from a dish so a waterfall or dripper is best to keep them hydrated. Additionally, broadleaf plants can provide an opportunity for water to collect, and your gecko may drink from this. Any water source will need to be cleaned regularly to prevent bacteria build-up.
Diet
Being omnivorous the Leachianus Gecko will naturally feed on a variety of insects and forest fruits. To replicate this in captivity, live food such as crickets, locust, cockroaches or calci worms can be offered, fruits such as banana, strawberry and mango and a good quality powder mix such as Repashy or Sticky Foot. All food will need to be supplemented with calcium, multivitamins and D3 ensuring your gecko is receiving everything nutritionally required of its body. The mixes and fruit should be provided on a feeding platform or a higher branch as they are more likely to feed on it.
Swell SuperStore species profile:
- Scientific name - Rhacodactylus leachianus
- Adult Expected Size - 12 - 15 inches
- Habitat - Forest habitats of New Caledonia favouring dense vegetation. Arboreal living.
- Required Enclosure Size - 90 x 45 x 90cm
- UV Lighting - 2 - 3 UVI (Enclosure height dependent)
- Expected Lifespan - 15 - 20 Years
- Temperature Gradient - 22 - 28C
- Humidity Levels - 60 - 80%
- Feeding - Omnivores - Live food such as crickets, locust, cockroaches or calci worm, fruit and powder mixes such as Repashy or Sticky Foot
- Handling - Can be jumpy but usually easily tamed, handle infrequently
Leachianus gecko, Rhacodactylus leachianus, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
The Emerald Grass Lizard, also known as the Green Grass Lizard, is a species originating from Japan. They are commonly found amongst trees, shrubs and other vegetation, and live an arboreal lifestyle. Emerald grass lizards are usually bright green in colour, with limited patterns. They have a very long thin tail that can stretch to more than twice the length of the body. This tail is used for balance to enable them in their extremely agile behaviours. Although quick and nimble, careful handling is possible, taking care not to damage their fragile limbs.
Housing
The Emerald Grass Lizard is a very active lizard that requires a lot of space to move around. A minimum of 90 x 45 x 60cm should be provided to house up to four adults, although bigger is definitely appreciated. This will provide good opportunity for horizontal movement as well as their all-important arboreal habits. To begin with, your enclosure will need a good quality loose substrate such as soil - this will ensure moisture is held and will also provide the option of a live planted terrarium, which is much more natural and aesthetically pleasing. It may also be a good idea to think about a drainage layer, consisting of a layer of hydro rocks, matting and then your substrate - this will stop the soil from becoming waterlogged but also helps aid humidity in the tank by re-using the water that collects in the bottom layers.
To be sure that your lizardss can make use of the entire enclosure, a lot of decor will need to be arranged inside the enclosure. It is essential that the climbing structure created is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the animal but also that it creates access to the higher portions of the tank, making heat and UV more accessible. For this, you could use a variety of branches, logs, vines and foliage.
To allow your lizards to take cover from heat and UV and hide from view, you should also use some of this decor to create sufficient 'off show' areas - for example, dense foliage over a branch to create a hidden area underneath. Being diurnally active, this won’t affect your viewing of your lizards as they will still venture out to bask and feed, and they are usually active animals.
Heating and lighting
Heat and UVB are vital elements of any reptile enclosure. For the Emerald Grass Lizard, you will first require a good heat source - either a basking bulb or ceramic heat emitter are best. Any heat source should be attached to a thermostat for regulation and for the safety of the animal. You should also use an accurate digital thermometer for monitoring. This should be placed at the top of the enclosure, facing down as the lizards would also bask at height.
A temperature of 30-32C should be maintained in this basking area, with the cooler areas of the tank remaining around 22-25C, allowing your lizards to move away from the heat as well as towards it for basking. During the night, you may not need to heat the enclosure, as temperatures can drop to around 15-20C - this mimicking a natural temperature drop experienced by the animals in the wild.
Another essential aspect of the enclosure is a good quality UVB light. This will come in the form of a strip bulb such as Arcadia's T5 6% (the strength will depend on the height of the enclosure). This bulb will enable your animal to metabolise key nutrients and use them effectively in the body. Not having this UV can make them extremely ill and even prove fatal. You will use UVB in a 12-hour cycle, going off as the temperature drops. It is also important to note that all UV has a lifespan between 6 - 12 months (this will depend on the bulb and brand). After the lifespan of the bulb is up, the UV will no longer be being emitted, even if the tube is still glowing.
Humidity
Another consideration for this animal is humidity. For Emerald Grass Lizards, this should remain between 60 - 80%, and measured with an accurate digital hygrometer. To achieve this humidity the enclosure will require frequent spraying, a good quality, moisture-holding substrate and possibly the addition of a fogger and/or live plants. The lizards are unlikely to drink from still water like a water dish, and it is therefore highly recommended that a fountain or dripper is included to ensure that your animals are constantly hydrated. Another good idea is the use of broadleaf plants on which water can collect for them to drink off.
Diet
Your Emerald Grass Lizards are insectivores and so will feed on a variety of small-sized crickets, locust, calci-worms and mini mealworms. Variety is key in providing your lizards with good nutrition as all prey items differ in nutritional value. You will also need to dust the live food with additional calcium, multi-vitamins and D3 in the relevant feeding rota to ensure your lizards gets everything they need. It is always recommended that live food be 'gut-loaded' before being fed to the animal to make them an even better quality meal.
Swell SuperStore Emerald Grass Lizard profile
- Scientific name - Takydromus smaragdinus
- Adult Expected Size - 6 inches excluding tail (snout to vent)
- Habitat - Rain forests of Japan. Arboreal living.
- Required Enclosure Size - minimum of 90 x 45 x 60cm (group of 3-4 adults)
- UV Lighting - 3 - 4 UVI (6% T5 - dependent on the height of the enclosure)
- Expected Lifespan - 6 - 10 Years
- Temperature Gradient - 25 - 32C
- Humidity Levels - 60 - 80%
- Feeding - Insectivores - Mainly live food such as small crickets, locust and worms
- Handling - Careful handling is possible.
Emerald grass lizard, Takydromus smaragdinus, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
The Barking Gecko, or Milii Gecko is a ground-dwelling gecko found in arid, rocky grassland and desert habitats in Australia. They are often referred to as Australian Barking geckos due to their vocal habits, especially when disturbed. The underside of the body is white with dark maroon through reddish-brown to tan and even orange colours across the top of the body and head. This species can be aggressive, but has the potential to tame down and can become a docile pet.
Housing
The Milii Gecko is nocturnally active but a good-sized, stimulating environment is still important. A minimum vivarium size of 3 x 2 x 2ft should be used to house a single adult, to enable proper movement as well as thermo-regulation and exercise. For the base of the environment, we recommend a sand mix such as Pro Reps Leo Life or Lucky Reptiles Desert Bedding. Your gecko will not be inclined to eat this substrate as long as the temperature, UVB and supplements are correct.
These geckos are typically found in arid grassland and desert habitats, so a sandy substrate is also more natural. The enclosure should be built up with a range of enrichment pieces such as branches, rocks, tunnels, logs and foliage as well as a minimum of two hiding places like caves - though more is recommended. Ensure that there are hiding spots and decor on both the hot and cool sides of your enclosure so your gecko can make use of the whole tank and feel secure. For an even more stimulating habitat that encourages good mental and physical activity try moving decor around every now and then.
Heating and lighting
Being a reptile, your gecko will not be able to regulate their internal temperatures without an external source so good quality heating, as well as lighting, is vital. Firstly a hot end of 30-32C is needed, a cooler opposite end of around 22C and a drop to around 15C overnight to replicate a natural nighttime drop. This can be achieved best with the use of a basking bulb or ceramic bulb which needs to be controlled with a thermostat. All temperatures can be monitored with an accurate digital thermometer.
Your gecko, despite their nocturnal habits, would also always naturally be exposed to UVB and this is an essential part of equipment in keeping them healthy. As well as boosting their immune systems and overall wellness, UVB is responsible for metabolising key nutrients such as calcium, so being deprived of this can have serious health risks and even prove fatal.
You will need a strip UV lighting system such as Arcadia's shade dweller, though the strength of the bulb will depend on the height of the enclosure. This bulb will be used in a 12-hour cycle, going off at night as the temperatures drop to create good day and night periods. It’s important to note that any UVB has a lifespan of 6 - 12 months depending on the bulb, after which, the bulb may still glow but there will be no UV being emitted. So it will need changing.
Humidity
Milii Geckos prefer a low humidity of between 30 - 40%, which should easily be reached without extra equipment. It will be necessary to provide a humid hide in the cooler area though, which will not raise overall humidity but provide good opportunity for ease of shedding. Moss can be used in this hide and sprayed with water to keep it moist. The humidity can be read with an accurate digital hygrometer. A small water dish will also need to be placed in the enclosure and cleaned on a regular basis to prevent bacterial build-up.
Diet
Your Milii Gecko is an insectivore and so will feed on a variety of crickets, locust, cockroaches, Calci-worms and mealworms. Variety is key in providing your gecko with good nutrition as all prey items differ in nutritional value. You will also need to dust the live food with additional calcium, multi-vitamins and D3 in the relevant feeding rota to ensure your gecko gets from its diet everything needed of the body. It is recommended also that live food be 'gut-loaded' before being fed to the animal to make them an even better quality meal.
Swell SuperStore Milii Gecko profile
- Scientific name - Underwoodisaurus milii
- Adult Expected Size - 7 - 8 inches
- Habitat - Arid, rocky grasslands and desert habitats of Australia. Terrestrial living.
- Required Enclosure Size - 3 x 2 x 2ft
- UV Lighting - 1 - 2 UVI (use of ShadeDweller - height dependent)
- Expected Lifespan - 15 - 20 Years
- Temperature Gradient - 22C - 32C
- Humidity Levels - 30 - 40%
- Feeding - Live food - Crickets, locust, cockroaches, calci-worms and mealworms
- Handling - Can be skittish and aggressive especially when young but can be tamed and easily handled.
Barking gecko, Underwoodisaurus milii, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
The Tomato Frog, aptly named for their round, vibrant orange/red bodies, are endemic to Madagascar, where they live amongst forest floors and swamps. They aren't the most active of creatures spending most of their time buried in the earth waiting for prey to crawl by, which they catch with their large mouths and sticky tongues. They are nocturnal in nature and pretty inactive then too. But they do have astonishing colouration, so make an interesting addition to any collection.
Housing
Despite their low activity tomato frogs still require adequate space to move between crevices and to water. A minimum 60 x 45 x 30cm enclosure should provide sufficient opportunity for this. A soil-based substrate should be used to allow for burrowing behaviour and is essential for this frog’s behavioural repertoire. This will also provide a good opportunity for a bioactive setup, with live plants and clean up crew.
As well as soil, moss and leaf litter will also make good foundations of your environment and assist toward humidity and a natural look. To go with this earthy base, a number of cork pieces, logs, rocks and other decor will mean your frog has a secure environment, providing hiding opportunity as well as one that is enriching.
Heating and lighting
In terms of heating, look to create a warm end of 26°C and a cool end of 15-20°C, which will allow the frog to regulate its own temperature by moving from one end to the other. To reach these temperatures you could use a heat mat or small heat lamp, though any heat source will need to be attached to the relevant thermostat to prevent overheating. Nighttime temperatures can drop to 15°C or slightly lower to simulate a good day/night cycle.
Even though the frogs are a nocturnal species in the wild, they will still be exposed to small amounts of UV through the day so providing a low-level UV lamp on a 12-hour cycle will help with better health and a more natural setting. A good UVB bulb is Arcadia's ShadeDweller (25- 40cm away) which will need replacing every 12 months.
Humidity
Terrarium humidity should sit at 70-80% for the majority of the time. Regular spraying, foggers and small water sources can help keep the level of humidity stable and prevent the enclosure from drying out. Any water going into the terrarium will need to be de-chlorinated as chlorine can cause the frog’s skin to dry out, with long-lasting damage. Being the shape that they are, these frogs are not great climbers or very agile, so shallow dishes should be used for water sources. Humidity should be monitored using a good quality digital hygrometer.
Diet
Tomato Frogs are insectivores so will only feed on insects like crickets, locust, worms and cockroaches. Live food will need to be dusted with good quality calcium, D3 and multivitamin supplements and additional gut loading will also ensure the best nutrition. Alternating the supplements throughout the week in a suitable regime will mean the frog receives all the required nutrition for development and healthy upkeep. Vitamin A is an additional supplement for frogs playing a part in vision, skin health and tissue growth - essential to a group of amphibians which can often suffer from neurological issues.
Summary
If a Tomato frog sounds like the ideal pet for you, why not take a look at our Tomato frogs for sale, and see if we have any in stock.
Swell SuperStore Tomato Frog
- Scientific name - Dyscophus antongilii
- Adult Expected Size - 5-8 cm
- Habitat - forest floors of Madagascar, within the loose soils, leaves and mosses. Terrestrial living.
- Required Enclosure Size - 60 x 45 x 30cm
- UV Lighting - 1-2 UVI (shade dweller - 25-40cm away)
- Expected Lifespan - 6-8 years
- Temperature Gradient - 15-26C
- Humidity Levels - 70-80%
- Feeding - Insectivores - live food such as crickets, locust, worms or cockroaches.
- Handling - NOT FOR HANDLING - Amphibious species have extremely sensitive skin,
Tomato frog, Dyscophus antongilii, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
Gopher Snakes are a diverse species which include many recognised subspecies. They inhabit a variety of habitats throughout North America including deserts, prairies, woodlands, brushlands and forests. Most Gophers are expected to reach a length of between 5 - 6ft but some subspecies can reach 9ft!
They would usually display pale brown and tans with dark brown-black patterns down the body, though the appearance of these patterns and shades can differ between subspecies. You'll notice in albino Gophers, the dark brown shades have been replaced with orange patterns and the body colours are white-yellow in colour. They also have the red eyes typical of an albino. They are quite skittish but should be tamed down fairly easily.
Housing
Gopher Snakes require a minimum enclosure of 4 x 2 x 2ft. Within this space, it is important to provide a good variety of decor for them to utilise. You will find the more decor is in your enclosure the more your snake may venture out as it will not only feel more secure but will also have more to explore!
Decor can include a variety of branches, tunnels, cork pieces, logs, rock and foliage and is even more beneficial for your snake when moved around every now and then. It is also important to incorporate at least two hiding spots, though more is recommended, and these will need to be available on both the warm and cool sides of the vivarium.
Substrates for the Gopher snake shouldn't hold too much humidity and should provide a good opportunity for burrowing. Good examples include orchid bark or sand/soil mixes. This will need spot-cleaning regularly and should be fully cleaned every 6 - 8 weeks to keep a clean environment for your snake.
Heating and lighting
As a reptile, basking opportunity will be essential in your setup, and best reached with a basking bulb or ceramic heat emitter to one end of the vivarium. It is essential that this bulb is protected with a guard as snakes are quite inquisitive and have a tendency to burn themselves if given the opportunity. It is also essential that any heat source be attached to the relevant thermostat, ensuring the safety of your animal and keeping the correct temperatures in your environment.
For the Gopher Snake, the basking temperature should be around 32C with the cooler end being around 22-25C, giving a good gradient for thermo-regulation. Temperatures can be monitored using a digital thermometer for accuracy. During the night, these temperatures can safely drop to around 15C, and this provides a drop that would be natural in the wild. In a natural setting, your Gopher Snake would also be exposed to UVB and this makes a beneficial addition to your vivarium, especially for promoting better health and well being.
The bulb you use would depend on the height of the enclosure but some good examples are Arcadia's shade dweller or a 6% T5 strip bulb (enclosure height dependent). Any UV will have a lifespan, after which the UV will fade despite the bulb still glowing, so it is important that this is kept on top of. The lifespan would be bulb dependent and can range from 6-12 months. This bulb will be used in a 12-hour cycle, and will go off as the temperature drops to create good day/night periods.
Humidity
Gopher Snakes do not need much humidity and intervention shouldn't be necessary, but during shedding it is a good idea to mist the environment; raising humidity a little and/or provide a mossy area. This will help loosen the skin and make the process a little easier. Handling should be avoided during this time so that the skin isn't damaged and therefore more difficult to shed off. There should always also be a water dish available for both drinking and bathing in, which will need to be kept clean to avoid bacteria build-up.
Diet
Being carnivorous, the Gopher Snake will feed solely on other animals, which in captivity mainly consists of defrosted mammal species. Prey items will gradually get larger with your snake, and can include rats, mice and chicks, though stable should be rats and mice. The prey will be defrosted and offered on tweezers, which should encourage your snake to strike (with a bit of movement) and coil the prey as it naturally would. Ensuring the item is warm can also encourage better feeding.
When young, feeding can take place once a week as the snake will require the protein for growth and development. In to adulthood however, feeding routine is best to change to every 10 days - 2 weeks, depending on the meal being offered. Always use your snake’s body condition to judge this so that you are able to keep them in a healthy weight.
Species profile
- Scientific name - Pituophis catenifer
- Adult Expected Size - 5 - 6ft
- Habitat - Deserts, prairies, woodlands, brushlands and forests of North America. Terrestrial living.
- Required Enclosure Size - 4 x 2 x 2ft
- UV Lighting - 2 - 3 UVI (shade dweller or a 6% T5 strip bulb - enclosure height dependent)
- Expected Lifespan - 12 - 15 years
- Temperature Gradient - 22 - 32C
- Humidity Levels - 40 - 50%
- Feeding - Carnivores - Frozen food such as mice, rats and chicks.
- Handling - Can be skittish, usually easy to tame. Handling to be avoided 48 hours after feeding and when shedding.
Gopher snake, Pithuophis catenifer, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
The Giant African Millipede is one of the largest species of millipede and originates from Western Africa. Here it inhabits rain forests and subtropical environments, where it burrows away and resides amongst its favourite meals of rotting wood and forest floor decay.
They are dark brown-black in colour with visible lighter shades around segment edges as well as their legs and antenna. They are often handled in the pet trade and are not aggressive, but can sometimes be intolerant and curl tightly into a ball when stressed so it may take a little while for them to move around when out of their habitat.
Housing
Giant African Millipedes are a large species that like to burrow so an enclosure with good space and depth is much better, especially as they are social and prefer to be housed with a friend. A good example is a 60cm terrarium or a well ventilated plastic container of the same size. Within this area, it is first essential to provide a good depth of loose substrate - a soil is best to use such as coco soil. Mixed in with this you should also incorporate some moss (e.g sphagnum, carpet or cushion moss) as this is great as retaining moisture, and a good amount of leaf litter.
The leaf litter will not only provide cover and make a more natural setting, but it is also an important part of their diet so ensure these are topped up when running low. You should have a variety of wood in the enclosure such as cork pieces, or bogwood - creating an opportunity for hiding, enrichment and again contributing to their dietary needs. A shallow water dish will keep your millipedes hydrated and keep humidity high, so should also be added to the environment.
Heating and lighting
Giant African Millipedes will not require special lighting, though you may decide to add a small LED during the day so you are able to see them and also create better day/night periods. It is also often found that room temperature is sufficient to keep them at, as long as this resides from 20-24C. In cases where the enclosure is much below this a heating source may be required such as a heat mat. This will need to be thermostatically controlled to ensure that the environment doesn't overheat and dry out. To monitor these conditions, an accurate, digital thermometer should be used.
Humidity
Humidity is an important aspect of this species’ environment and should remain between 70 - 80% - measured with an accurate digital hygrometer. High humidity can come from moisture-holding substrates such as soil and moss, and with regular spraying. Humidity can also pose a risk of mould growth which needs to be removed when visible. A preventative for mould could be to add springtails - tiny 'clean up crew' that will live in the soil eating waste and mould that won’t bother your millipedes. You may notice that millipedes come with clean up crew themselves, with tiny mite-like creatures living on their bodies - these are not a concern for health.
Diet
Giant African Millipedes are detritivores - which means they feed on a variety of decaying plant matter. To provide them with all nutritional requirements, your enclosure should include wood such as cork as well as leaf litter - which doubles up as cover and enrichment. You should also provide suitable fruit and veg every now and then, as this can be an important source of vitamins. Food will not need dusting with any supplements, but it is important to provide cuttlebone in the environment, which will create another great nutritional opportunity. A good example of cuttlebone is Komodo's Cuttlebone Discs.
Swell SuperStore Giant African Millipede
- Scientific name - Archispirostreptus gigas
- Adult Expected Size - Up to 15 inches
- Habitat - Rain forests and subtropical environments of Western Africa.
- Required Enclosure Size - 60 x 45 x 30 cm or similar sized plastic container (1-2 millipedes).
- UV Lighting - Not required.
- Expected Lifespan - 5 - 7 Years
- Temperature Gradient - 20 - 24C
- Humidity Levels - 70 - 80%
- Feeding - Detritivores - Wood, leaf litter and fruit and vegetation
- Handling - Often handled, but can be intolerant and curl up.
You can learn more about exotic animal care in our blog, try our Royal python care sheet or Western hognose snake care sheet to get started.
Giant african millipede, Archispirostreptus gigas, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
The Asian Forest Scorpion is distributed across Southeastern Asia, including Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, India, Sri Lanka, Nepal, and China. It resides amongst the debris of the forest floor, hidden amongst leaf litter, moss and wood or burrowing down into the soil awaiting prey. Generally, it is not recommended to handle scorpions as they will often not tame and handling can pose a risk of being stung, as well as stressing the scorpion. But they still make fascinating pets, especially at feeding time. They are black in colour with large pincers and a prominent sting.
Housing
Forest scorpions naturally hide amongst forest floor debris and burrow down in loose substrates, but they still move between locations and burrows. To give them good opportunity to move around, it is recommended to house them in an Exo Terra 60 x 45 x 30cm terrarium, though others may keep them in a well ventilated plastic container of a similar size.
The first thing to consider is a good depth of loose substrate for them to burrow into, such as soil or sedge peat - enabling them to dig and tunnel down as they would naturally. On top of this, you could add leaf litter and mosses to assist with humidity and create a more natural environment, as well as smaller branches and cork bark which will make for good climbing and hiding spots. Vegetation is also good for making the environment more natural and providing further hiding opportunity - live plants will additionally add to higher humidity.
Heating and lighting
Scorpions do not require special lighting, though you may decide to have a small LED on the tank to create night and day periods and to assist in plant growth. They will need to be kept warm, with a gradient starting from 22C at the cool end and going up to around 28 - 30C at the hotter end. This can usually be provided with a heat mat which should always be thermostatically controlled and never cover the entire enclosure to ensure the safety of your pet.
For particularly cold environments, other heat sources may be necessary and again will need to be thermostatically controlled. Other safety precautions, especially if you choose to house them in a plastic container, is that the heat mat will require a certain amount of airflow between the mat and the container.
To create a night period, this temperature can drop to 15C or even slightly lower. Your scorpion would naturally be exposed to such a drop in its wild setting. All temperatures can be monitored using an accurate digital thermometer.
Humidity
Humidity is another important consideration with this species as they require 70 - 80%. This can be reached with good quality, moisture-holding substrate, live plants and regular spraying. Humidity can be measured using an accurate digital hygrometer. You can also provide a shallow water dish to help in humidity and keep your scorpion hydrated.
Contrary to belief, as long as the dish is shallow, invertebrates are able to get out and this will not pose a risk, though for small juveniles and babies the dish should be very small (e.g a bottle cap). A dish is always recommended over a sponge for example which can harbour bacteria. With the warmth and humidity combined, mould is also a risk in your scorpion environment and needs to be removed when visible - you can also add springtails; tiny 'clean up crew' which will eat mould and not bother your scorpion.
Diet
Scorpions will feed on live food such as crickets, locust, mealworms and even cockroaches depending on size. These can be dropped into the enclosure without extra supplementation. Your scorpion will only need to feed 1-2 times a week depending on the meal and it is important to ensure the live food is removed if not eaten. Particularly when the scorpion goes into moult, as they could be vulnerable to the live food eating them instead!
Moulting will take place as your scorpion grows and can be a worrying sight for new owners - with scorpions flipping on their back to crawl out of the old moult, they can often appear dead! Extra spraying and humidity will make the process easier but any other intervention won’t be necessary.
Swell SuperStore species profile
- Scientific name - Heterometrus spinifer
- Adult Expected Size - 5 inches
- Habitat - forest floors amongst the debris and loose soils. Terrestrial living.
- Required Enclosure Size - 60 x 45 x 30cm terrarium or similar sized container
- UV Lighting - Not required
- Expected Lifespan - 5 - 8 Years
- Temperature Gradient - 22 - 30C
- Humidity Levels - 70 - 80%
- Feeding - Live food such as crickets, locust, mealworms and even cockroaches
- Handling - Not recommended - scorpions will likely not tame down and can sting.
Asian forest scorpion, Heterometrus sp., husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.