The Peacock day gecko is a small species of gecko originating from Madagascar, Mauritius and Reunion Island, in the South-West Indian Ocean. Day Geckos are known for their vibrant colours, and the Peacock can be defined by a bright green and yellow body, with dark spots on their sides, outlined with a light blue and are sought after because of their amazing colouration.
Sadly these geckos are not for handling however, due to their very skittish nature, rapid movements and sensitive skin, but are impressive animal to keep for any reptile enthusiast.
If you are looking for an alternative to the Peacock day gecko, check out our Crested gecko care guide or our Western hognose snake care guide.
Housing
As the name suggests, Day Geckos are diurnally active (active in the day) so they can be enjoyed in daylight hours. They are arboreal by nature, residing in trees and foliage so a good enclosure height is essential. A minimum of 45 x 45 x 60cm is recommended to give adequate opportunity for exercise.
Within this space, a variety of branches, logs, vines and foliage should be used to create a secure climbing structure which will ensure your gecko can make use of all areas of the enclosure. The height also provides good opportunity for the growth of live plants.
Being skittish, the more hiding places that are available the better, like coconut hides and cork bark as well as dense vegetation. This won’t impact on your viewing and the gecko will still come out for feeding and basking, but will feel more comfortable at the same time.
Heating and lighting
Being a reptile, your gecko will need to be provided with sufficient heating and lighting. They require a basking temperature of between 30-32C in an arboreal spot, so its best reached with a basking bulb or ceramic heat emitter. Any heat source will need attaching to the relevant thermostat to prevent overheating and to keep the animal safe. Temperatures can be measured with an accurate digital thermometer to ensure your system is running correctly.
Temperatures can drop to around 15C during the night - which may not require additional heating. This is to mimic a natural temperature drop seen in wild habitats. It is also a necessity to provide UVB which is best in the form of a strip bulb such as Arcadia's 6% T5 (enclosure height dependent). This bulb will be used in a 12-hour cycle, going off as the temperature drops to create an adequate day/night cycle. All UVB bulbs have a lifespan between 6
and 12 months, after which the UV would have faded and even if the bulb is still glowing, so it is vital that this is kept on top of. Life span is bulb and brand dependent.
UVB enables your gecko to metabolise key nutrients in the body, so they can be used in development and general health and if UVB is not provided with it could prove detrimental or even fatal.
Humidity
Being from rainforest habitats, your gecko will also need a decent level of humidity in the enclosure, which can be achieved with moisture-holding substrates, regular spraying and foggers. Using an accurate digital hygrometer, your humidity should sit between 60 - 70%.
Day geckos will rarely come to the floor even to drink, so we recommend an arboreal placed water dish, waterfall and broad-leaved plants on which water can collect when spraying. Waterfalls can contribute to good humidity as well as making the environment look more natural. Ensure water sources are kept clean to avoid bacterial growth.
Diet
Being omnivorous the Day Gecko will naturally feed on a variety of insects and forest fruits. To replicate this in captivity, live food such as small crickets, calci worms or soldier flies can be offered (many prey items may be too big so be careful which you choose), fruits such as banana, strawberry and mango and a good quality powder mix such as Repashy or Sticky Foot.
All food will need to be supplemented with calcium, multivitamins and D3 ensuring your gecko is receiving everything nutritionally required of its body.
Peacock day gecko factfile
- Scientific name - Phelsuma quadriocellata
- Adult Expected Size - 4 - 6 inches
- Habitat - Rain forests of islands of the South-West Indian ocean. Arboreal living.
- Required Enclosure Size - 45 x 45 x 60cm
- UV Lighting - 3 - 4 UVI (6% T5 - Height Dependent)
- Expected Lifespan - 8 - 10 Years
- Temperature Gradient - 22 - 32C
- Humidity Levels - 60 - 70%
- Feeding - Omnivores - Live food such as crickets, calci worms and soldier flies, fruit and powder mixes such as Repashy and Sticky Foot
- Handling - Not for handling due to extremely skittish behaviour, rapid movement and skin sensitivity.
Peacock day geckos are available via the Swell Superstore
Peacock day gecko, Phelsuma quadriocellata, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
The Common Boa is a large species of snake originating from Central and South America. They inhabit forest habitats and take on a semi-arboreal lifestyle - more so when they are young and diminishing with age and size. They can often be found amongst trees and vegetation as well as taking refuge in tree hollows or abandoned mammal burrows.
Though normally nocturnal/crepuscular, they can additionally be found taking advantage of daytime basking and feeding opportunities. They are typically a grey-tan in the majority of body colour with brown - burgundy patterns. Their tails are more prominent in colour and display more vivid yellow shades with red patterns outlined in black. In 'red-tail' boas, this feature is even more vivid, though commons are still an attractive species.
Housing
The first thing to consider for a snake so large is whether you have adequate space for the enclosure, not just as a youngster but into adulthood also. An adult boa can range in size, with some individuals remaining 6 - 7ft in length (such as smaller males) while others can reach 10ft and even have potential to exceed this. The enclosure should be designed around this and allow the snake to fully stretch out, thermo-regulate and get good quality exercise. If your boa reached 6 - 7ft a minimum of 6 x 3 x 3ft should be prepared for, whereas larger individuals would require a space of at least 8 x 3 x 3ft. Remember these sizes are minimum requirements and any extra space will be beneficial.
Decor
With such a large area, you will also need a large amount of decor to fill it. Anything used will need to be sturdy, so permanent fixtures are a good option - for example, branches screwed into the sides of the enclosure. Additionally, a variety of plants, logs, cork pieces and rock can make the area look more natural as well as provide great stimulation and exercise for your snake.
For a more stimulating habitat, you could also move this decor around every now and then. With 3ft of height, there is also a good opportunity for arboreal enrichment - which is a fantastic way for your snake to exercise and stretch even if arboreal behaviours diminish slightly with age. Substrate choices for your Boa could include soil or forest floor beddings, and for better humidity upkeep and aesthetics you could also include moss and leaf litter.
Heating and lighting
The Common Boa will require heating, which comes in the form of a basking bulb. Ceramic heat mats will not be sufficient for such a large and arboreal habitat. Any heat source will need attaching to the relevant thermostat, to ensure the safety of the animal and prevent overheating. A basking temperature of around 32C should be maintained during the day, with cooler areas around 22-25C - which will enable your snake to regulate properly.
Temperatures can be monitored with accurate digital thermometers. During the night, you can allow your vivarium to drop to around 15C - this mimicking the drop in temperature that would naturally occur in the wild. Common Boas would also naturally be exposed to UVB, and it is highly recommended that this included in your vivarium. UVB will promote better general health and well being as well as create a more natural setting for your snake. Arcadia's T5 6% bulb is a great place to start (though the strength of the bulb is always enclosure height dependent).
Any UVB will require replacing after around 6 - 12 months (lifespan bulb and brand dependent) as after this period, the UV will no longer be emitted sufficiently, even if it seems the bulb is still glowing. This bulb will be used in a 12-hour cycle, going off as the temperature drops to create suitable day/night periods.
Humidity
The Common Boa will need high humidity of about 60 - 70% - so a good substrate choice is important as well as misting and possibly the use of foggers. Mist according to the readings of an accurate digital hygrometer to ensure this humidity isn't exceeded, which can become detrimental to the snake. It is also very beneficial to provide a large water dish or pool area so that your snake can not only remain hydrated but can bathe sufficiently; a great benefit to the skin particularly during shedding. This dish will need cleaning frequently to prevent bacteria build-up and ensure your snake doesn't become ill.
The Common Boa is a carnivore and meals will come in the form of rats, guinea pigs, or small rabbits. Prey items will grow with your snake and so when young the main diet will be in the form of rats, mice and chicks - though stable meals should be rats. This is because your Boa is heavy-bodied and requires a lot of protein which can be found in rats over lower protein items such as mice or chicks - though they can still be a suitable change every now and then.
As your Boa grows into an adult, larger rats, guinea pigs or even small rabbits can be fed, although it is essential that the weekly feeding rota isn't continued. At this point - your Boa won’t need as much protein for growth and weekly feeding on large meals can cause obesity. A rota of every 2 - 4 weeks, depending on the meal, is far better at keeping your snake in weight.
Food should be defrosted and preferably warm before being provided to the snake on tweezers. Handling should then be avoided for at least 48 hours to reduce the risk of regurgitation.
Common Boa fact file
- Scientific name Boa constrictor imperator
- Adult Expected Size - 8 - 10ft
- Habitat - Forest habitats of Central and South America. Semi-arboreal living.
- Required Enclosure Size - 6 x 3 x 3ft - 8 x 3 x 3ft (6 - 7ft individuals in at least 6ft in length, 8 - 10ft in at least 8ft in length)
- UV Lighting - 2 - 3 UVI
- Expected Lifespan - 20 - 30 Years
- Temperature Gradient - 22 - 32C
- Humidity Levels - 60 - 70%
- Feeding - Carnivorous - frozen prey such as rats, guinea pigs, or small rabbits.
- Handling - Commonly tamed well but a large species so two-person handling is recommended. Handling to be avoided 48 hours after feeding and when shedding.
Common boa, Boa constrictor imperator, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
Oriental fire-bellied toads are a social species of semi-aquatic amphibian found in Northern and Central Asia. Their habitats consist of forest, woodland, temperate rain forest, marshland swaps and even farmland where they can be found displaying in aquatic and terrestrial terrain. These toads are green or brown on the top of their bodies and bright orange or red underneath, which is where they get the fire-bellied name.
Being amphibious this species should not be handled, as contact with our skin can cause discomfort and long term damage. Despite this, they are active, can live in groups and are interesting pets.
Housing
The Fire-bellied toad is a fascinating species with diverse behavioural habits. Make sure that enough space is available for all individuals to escape one another and have sufficient feeding, heat and cover opportunity. 5 - 6 toads will require a minimum of 90 x 45 x 45 cm terrarium. Within this space, it is recommended to have a significant amount of water as well as land - up to 50/50. For the water section, there is the option of a substrate base to make it look a little more natural and provide an opportunity for aquatic plants.
Despite this being the aquatic section, it is also a good idea to include a variety of rocks and wood, which your toads can use to get out of the water or hide under. Any water going into the tank, including this water area, will need to be dechlorinated, which can be done with a liquid additive such as ZooMed’s Reptisafe.
Chlorine has a drying effect on amphibian skin, so normal tap water can 'burn' the toads and cause damage. This will also be relevant in misting the enclosure. For the land section of the tank, a good moisture-holding substrate soil should be used, as well as mosses and leaf litter to make it more natural and provide cover. In addition, a variety of decor such as branches, logs, rocks and foliage are extremely beneficial to your animals and creates good enrichment opportunity and mental stimulation. You will find this species use any enrichment provided and will even climb as well as swim.
Another behavioural aspect to note is that male toads can be quite vocal. This is one of their communication systems and is very relevant to them especially during mating. For groupings, you would want at least a couple of females, so as not to put too much stress on one female with multiple males, but you can also keep male groups or female groups.
You might also see your toads clinging to one another - this is to show dominance and won’t cause injury but should be kept an eye on. With any group-living species, it is vital to ensure all individuals maintain a good weight and no single one is being targeted, however, there will always be a certain pecking order.
Heating and lighting
To provide sufficient heating and lighting for these animals, start with a warm area of 26C on the land section of the enclosure. This is best reached with a basking bulb or ceramic heat emitter - either of which will need attaching to the relevant thermostat to ensure the safety of the animals. For the cooler areas of the tank, including the water section, 18-22C is recommended and therefore will likely not warrant a submersible heater unless in a considerably cold room.
Nighttime temperatures can drop to 15C - which will mimic a drop in temperature that would naturally be experienced in a wild setting. All temperatures should be consistently monitored using an accurate digital thermometer.
Fire-bellied toads would also naturally be exposed to UVB and this is an important addition to your enclosure, boosting health and well-being as well as creating a more natural environment. Good examples of relevant bulbs are Arcadia's Shade Dweller or 6% T5 (The strength depending on the height of your enclosure). UV should be used in a 12-hour cycle, going off as the temperature drops, and the bulbs will also need replacing after 6-12 months (lifespan depending on bulb and brand). After the specified lifespan, the bulb may still glow, but the UV would have deteriorated.
Humidity
High humidity is vital in your Fire-bellied setup and should be between 70 - 80% - and measured with an accurate digital hygrometer. To reach this humidity may not be too difficult with such a large water section, but will require additional misting and/or the use of a fogger, to ensure the land area doesn't dry out. Remember misting water will also need dechlorinating. Live plants and moss can also be great contributors to this humidity.
Diet
Fire-bellied toads are insectivores and will feed on a variety of crickets, locust, Calci worms and flies. Gut loading in conjunction with dusting with good quality calcium, D3 and multivitamin supplements in an alternating cycle will mean the frogs receive all the required nutrients from the live food. Vitamin A is also vital to frogs specifically and plays a big part in vision, skin health and tissue growth - essential for an amphibian which can be prone to neurological issues.
Swell SuperStore Oriental Fire-bellied toads:
- Scientific name - Bombina orientalis
- Adult Expected Size - Around 2 inches / 5 cm
- Habitat - Woodland, temperate rain forest, marshland, swaps and farmland in Northern and Central Asia. Semi-aquatic.
- Required Enclosure Size - 90 x 45 x 45 cm (5 - 6 toads)
- UV Lighting - 1 - 2 UVI (7% Shade Dweller or 6% T5 - Depending on the height of the enclosure)
- Expected Lifespan - 15 - 20 Years
- Temperature Gradient - 20 - 26C
- Humidity Levels - 70 - 80%
- Feeding - Insectivore - Live food such as crickets, locust, calci worms and flies
- Handling - Cannot be handled, as contact with our skin can cause discomfort and long term damage
Oriental fire-bellied toad, Bombina orientalis, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
The Mata Mata turtle originates from Northern South America, throughout the Amazon including Venezuela, Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia and Bolivia. They are an aquatic species favouring slower moving water sources such as streams, swamps or marshes. They are a fascinating species with a characterful look. Their most prominent features being the triangular head shape, 'snorkel' nose extension and apparent sleepy smile. They are efficient ambush predators, dining mainly on fish in the wild.
Housing
The Mata Mata turtle can be a big commitment as a pet, so it’s essential that space is prepared for sooner rather than later. Eventually, this species is likely to require more than just a tank, and an indoor pond is more appropriate long term. Always judge the size of the individual and ensure they are able to move around freely when designing the pond area. This species is fully aquatic, so a land area isn't necessary as they don’t leave the water to bask.
Despite being strictly aquatic, Mata Matas aren't great swimmers and require a substrate to 'walk on' like a gravel mix to give them traction. You can also use a variety of rocks, wood pieces and foliage to provide good leverage for movement as well as creating a more natural setting. The Mata Mata will hide amongst decor on the floor but covered areas from surface foliage will also make your turtle feel more secure.
Water conditions for the Mata Mata can be difficult to get right. They require a low pH of 5 - 5.5 (7 being neutral), and tannins from leaf litter, peat, and wood. This can make the colour of the water slightly brown but is best when creating an Amazonian Mata Mata environment. RO water can be used for a source of low pH freshwater.
Temperature
The temperature of the water should range from 25 - 27C and can be achieved with an aquarium heater. For monitoring purposes and to ensure the heater is working effectively, you will also need an accurate aquatic thermometer. Mata Mata's prefer slow-moving water, so this should be considered when adding filtration.
Filtration
Filtration is necessary to keep the water quality adequate (i.e no ammonia, low nitrates and not too much mulm and debris) but when choosing a filter it is important to incorporate a break in any falling water with wood or rock, or ensuring that when the water falls it isn't disrupting the tank too much while keeping a steady, undisturbed aquatic environment. As this species can get large and destructive, it is also a better idea to invest in an external system rather than a smaller internal filter. They are better at filtering larger water bodies and can’t be interfered with by the turtle.
Lighting
A terrestrial basking temperature isn't required for Mata Mata. As long as the water temperature is stable, your heating is covered. It is however recommended to provide UVB light. As this has to penetrate water, this will have to be a high output such as Arcadia's 12-14% T5 bulbs dependent on the height of the enclosure. This UVB will create a more natural environment and boost the health and well being of your turtle so is a necessity. This UV will be used in a 12-hour cycle, going off at night to promote good day and night periods. It’s also important to remember that any UV will have a lifespan between 6 - 12 months - depending on the bulb and brand. After this duration, the UV will no longer be effective, even if the bulb is glowing.
Diet
Your Mata Mata Turtle is a carnivorous species and will be feed on a variety of fish, worms, muscles and insects. The fish especially will provide a good calcium source as bones are ingested, however, it is still essential to supplement with calcium and vitamins. Being aquatic this can be a little tricky as many supplements come in the form of dust, but there are alternatives such as Beaphar Turtle Vit or Zoo Meds Dr. Turtle Slow Release Calcium Block which should be utilised, ensuring your turtle has all the required nutrition for health and development. Food can be offered on tweezers on the surface of the water and your turtle will be attracted to movement, so may not feed on items that sink to the floor.
Swell SuperStore Matamata Turtle:
- Adult Size - 2ft +
- Habitat - Slower moving water sources such as streams, swamps or marshes of the Amazon basin. Aquatic
- Required Enclosure Size - Appropriate sized indoor pond - the individual needs to be able to move a significant length freely and be able to use a large area.
- UV Lighting - Strong UV output such as Arcadia's 12-14% (Depending on the height of the enclosure)
- Expected Lifespan - 15 - 30Years +
- Temperature Gradient - 25 - 27C
- Humidity Levels - Aquatic
- Feeding - Carnivorous - a variety of fish, worms, muscle and insects
- Handling - Not for handling - these turtles are fully aquatic and will not appreciate being pulled from the water. They can also be snappy.
Mata mata turtle, Chelus fimbrata, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
The Bumblebee dart frog is a species of frog which originates from South America and is so-called for its bright yellow and black skin. Like all dart frogs, they are able to secrete a toxin through their porous skin, though this is produced with the ingestion of wild insects such as ants, so isn't a worry in captivity with their fly and cricket diet.
These frogs can often be found close to streams and small bodies of water, even though they are not great swimmers, loosing their webbed feet into adulthood and becoming a more terrestrial amphibian, favouring the leaf litter, mosses and tree hollows of the forest floor. Being amphibian these frogs cannot be handled due to extremely sensitive skin - contact with our skin can result in damage and discomfort for them.
Housing
Bumblebee Dart Frogs are active animals and diurnal in their habits, meaning they are likely to be visible a lot of the time. They are able to be kept in pairs or very small groups, tank size permitting as aggression is common towards each other if they do not have sufficient space to escape to. A terrarium of 60 x 45 x 45cm is a good size for a couple of frogs, whilst providing plenty of places to escape company and feed individually.
Heating and lighting
One thing to consider when housing these frogs is the heating element you use. Dart frogs aren't very tolerant when it comes to heating so would only require a warm area with a maximum temperature of 24°C, and 15-18°C towards the colder end. This can be accurately monitored with digital thermometers.
A heat mat will provide a good source of heat but will need fitting to the relevant thermostat to ensure the enclosure does not overheat. Nighttime temperature can drop to around 15°C and so may not require any extra heating.
Even though this species spends most of its time on the forest floor or hiding in the dense leaves and moss, they would still be exposed to some UVB in their natural environment. Providing this in your enclosure will boost your frog’s health and help create a natural setting, while also creating a day-night cycle.
A UV tube such as Arcadia's ShadeDweller (height dependent) would provide them with as much UV as they need so long as the bulb is changed regularly (lifespan is bulb dependent) as the UV will fade but the light will still be glowing over time.
Humidity
Dart frogs require a humid environment of around 70-80%. Regular spraying and foggers are a good way of keeping this humidity stable and preventing the enclosure from drying out. Humidity can be monitored with a good quality digital hygrometer. It is also vital that any water in the terrarium is dechlorinated as the chlorine can cause the frog’s skin to dry out and can cause long-lasting damage.
Large bowls or pools are not recommended as dart frogs are not great swimmers, lacking webbed feet, so shallow dishes should be used.
Substrate
Moss, a good substrate mix (such as coco soil or other earthy substrates) and lots of live plants can help also help maintain the level of humidity and provide a natural setting for the animals. Having relatively sensitive feet, leaf litter can make a good addition preventing prolonged exposure to a boggy or wet substrate, as well as logs, rocks and foliage for your frogs to climb up. Tank decoration such as this will also add a challenge, enrichment and plenty of hiding places to the enclosure.
Diet
Being insectivores, these frogs will eat feeder insects such as tiny crickets (age and size-dependent), springtails, and fruit flies, which can be gut loaded to make them even more nutritious. Live food should be dusted with good quality calcium, D3 and multivitamin supplements in a suitable regime throughout the week so that your frog receives all the required nutrients from its live food. Vitamin A is vital to frogs and will play a big part in vision, skin health and tissue growth - especially as frogs can be prone to neurological disorders.
Species factfile - the Bumblebee dart frog:
- Scientific name - Dendrobates leucomelas
- Size - 2-3cm
- Habitat - leaf litter, moss and tree hollows amongst the forest floors of South America. Terrestrial living - semi-arboreal habits.
- Required Enclosure Size - 60 x 45 x 45cm
- UV Lighting - 1-2 UVI (7% ShadeDweller - 25-40cm away)
- Expected Lifespan - 8-10 years
- Temperature Gradient - 15°C - 24°C
- Humidity Levels - 70% - 80%
- Feeding - Insectivore - feeding on fruit flies, spring tails and smallest crickets.
- Handling - Not For Handling, amphibious species have extremely sensitive skin, contact with ours causes damage and discomfort.
Bumblebee dart frog, Dendrobates leucomelas, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
The Budgett’s frog can endear, scare, horrify and intrigue at the same time. Here’s how to keep one.
Budgett’s frogs are more aquatic versions of their cousins the horned frogs and come from the Gran Chaco region of South America, a semi-arid region spanning the borders of Bolivia, Paraguay and Argentina. In the wet season, they inhabit shallow pools where they predate other frog species, smaller members of their own kind and just about anything that strays too near to their huge mouths.
Like the horned frogs, they are ambush predators, lying motionless for much of the day before lunging and engulfing other creatures, but unlike horned frogs, Budget’s do their stalking in the water. Eyes and nostrils placed right on the tops of their heads, the Budgett's like to lie in just a few inches of water, blending into the surrounding mud, algae and plant life. They are a solitary species, coming together only to breed, and when the pools dry up in the dry season, they burrow in the mud and cocoon themselves, waiting for the rains.
They can be bred, with females attaining just over four inches and males, three, but the risk of the larger female eating the male will be omnipresent. To sex them, apart from the size, males should have a black throat, and females grey or white.
Captive care
Budgett’s frogs need a 60cm terrarium devoted mainly to a water section, with a filter to break down their waste, some great example of these can be found in the Exo Terra range. Lighting can be bright to encourage the growth of marginal aquatic plants, and floating plants like Frogbit or Salvinia suit the frogs perfectly as they can lay underneath them while hiding away and feeling more secure.
The water section can either be substrate-free, smooth, round gravel or fine, soft sand. Mud and soils will block the filter.
The temperature in the terrarium should be between 25 and 29 Celsius, with the water depth three times the body depth of the frog. A soil area can be provided to encourage brumation although a dormant period isn’t necessary.
Feed adults three times a week on dusted Locusts and pre-killed pinky mice, offered with forceps. The huge mouth has just two simple, spiky “teeth”, so avoid feeding by hand or handling the frog. When frightened the frog can raise up on its legs and make a screaming noise, something that should never be encouraged.
Budgett’s will also eat fish, so don’t add any live fish to the wet display. But if you’re into horned frogs, aquatic predators and want something different, Lepidobatrachus laevis could be right up your street!
Budgett’s frog, Lepidobatrachus laevis, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
Yemen chameleons, also known as Veiled chameleons are so-called for the prominent crests on top of their heads. They are found in Yemen and southern Saudi Arabia and live an arboreal lifestyle. Trees, shrubs and other vegetation is where this species call home, venturing to the forest floor only for egg-laying.
They are an omnivorous species, feeding mainly on live insects but occasionally on vegetation. Their greatest adaptation is their tongue, with a length of roughly twice the body length, this species is able to capture distant insects instantly. They are a solitary living species and come together in the wild only for breeding.
Housing
Your chameleon terrarium/vivarium will need to be tall as well as providing enough horizontal space. The minimum size is a 90cmx45cmx90cm although a larger size could be utilized and benefit your chameleon’s activity. In addition, chameleons can be allowed out to roam on custom climbing frames or in the garden as long as an area is secured and the chameleon is unable to escape.
Substrates are an important first step in creating a suitable environment for your animal. They can aid in raising humidity and are essential for egg-laying females. The best in both of these circumstances is a soil or jungle mix however orchid bark is also commonly used.
Soil can also be used in a lay box when females are laying eggs. Females will lay eggs even when they haven't been mated, but these will be infertile and should be disposed of. It is essential that during this egg carrying/laying period, your female chameleon is under minimal stress, so handling should be kept to a minimum, if at all. Stress can cause your animal to become egg bound which is a serious and possibly fatal medical issue. A no handling, minimal stress protocol will dramatically reduce the risk.
Heating and lighting
Your chameleon cannot regulate its own body heat so it will need a basking area created by a thermostatically controlled heat lamp. A basking temperature of around 32-35°C will need to be maintained year-round. A good quality, accurate thermometer will enable you to monitor this effectively. During the night your chameleon terrarium can safely drop to room temperature, so long as this remains between 15-20°C. There should always be an escape from warm and cool areas, so the heat source should be kept to one side of the terrarium.
It is essential to provide good quality UV light in your terrarium. UV tube/strip lights are better than D3 Bulbs on the outside of the terrarium, or Coiled bulbs. This is because this species requires high levels of UV. When the UV has to pass through mesh, like on the top of a terrarium, a percentage of UV will be lost, providing only mid-level UV, and coil bulbs will not give out the UV sufficiently around the width of the terrarium like a long tube will.
UVB is essential in metabolising significant nutrients like calcium so they can be used effectively within the body. UVA is essential in your animal’s eyesight and therefore hunting ability. Both of these are present in a good quality UV tube/strip. You will need to replace this bulb every 6-9 months whether it is still glowing or not as the UV will no longer be effective after this time.
Humidity
You will need to maintain sufficient humidity levels to keep your chameleon healthy and hydrated. Humidity can be raised through well-selected substrates, moss, good quality water sources and frequent spraying of the whole terrarium. Humidity should remain at 70 - 80%. This species can handle humidity as low as 60% though it is better to aim for 70 - 80%. You will need to spray the terrarium at least 2-3 times a day, dependant on humidity levels. Tap water is safe to use for both drinking and spraying.
Decor
Your vivarium will need a variety of furniture to make it adequate for your chameleon. Chameleons are arboreal and so the majority of your furniture will be aimed at creating climbing opportunity and stability. Logs, branches, vines and even rope can all be used in your design. Using different heights, thicknesses and creating different routes will mean your chameleon is well stimulated and given enough exercise potential. Plants and foliage will create sufficient cover and make your terrarium look more natural. Chameleons will also drink off the leaves when sprayed.
Chameleons will not drink from still water like a water bowl. Because of this, it is essential to provide running water so your animal doesn't become dehydrated.
Waterfalls and drippers are the best way to do this and mean that your chameleon has constant access to water when the terrarium isn't being sprayed. Waterfalls and drippers will need cleaning regularly so as not to contaminate the water.
When feeding your chameleon it is important to ensure that they receive all the nutrition that they require. Feeder insects such as crickets, locusts, cockroaches and worms can be fed to your chameleon although all items have different nutritional values so further advice would be beneficial. You can also offer some fruit and veg to your chameleon every now and then. Vegetation is a small percentage of the diet but if provided is a good source of extra nutrition.
Any food items will need to be dusted each time they are fed, with calcium dusted 5 days a week, and a multi-vitamin for 2 days a week. These will be essential in promoting chameleon health.
Yemen chameleon, Chameleo calyptratus, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
Mediterranean tortoise species include Hermann’s (Testudo hermanni), Spur-thighed (Testudo graeca), and Marginated (Testudo marginata). It’s always recommended that your specific species be researched for a more individual overview, however, all three of these species require a similar environment, being from similar areas.
Habitat
Mediterranean species inhabit rocky, arid regions, scrub and forests. They are all terrestrial living but are capable of climbing rocks and rough/uneven terrain as well as digging. Being herbivorous, most of their day is spent foraging for vegetation as well as basking in the sun. During colder, winter months they would enter a long period of hibernation in the wild, though as this behaviour occurs on the basis of lack of food and heat, it is not required in captivity so your pet will be awake all year round!
Enclosure
Tortoises naturally roam and forage long distances throughout their day, so it is essential that your enclosure is large enough to suit their size and activity needs. The first 10 years of your pet’s life is when most of their growth will occur but although this sounds like a long time period, preparation is key in keeping these species properly.
A garden, where your tortoise can roam and forage on grasses and weeds is also a great exercise as well as nutritional opportunity, though there needs to be consideration of the weather conditions and the time periods your tortoise is away from UV and optimum basking temperature. Tortoises shouldn't be kept outside long term, even through the summer months.
Heating and lighting
Mediterranean tortoises will require a basking temperature of around 32°C throughout the day. Heating and lighting for a table will be different from that of a vivarium but further advice is available from our Swell Reptiles and Swell Superstore staff for your specific enclosure type.
A basking D3 bulb may be used for a table, which includes heat, UVA and UVB all in one bulb. These types of bulbs cannot be thermostatically controlled though and should be attached to a bracket, leaving room for movement of the bulb and monitored with an accurate thermometer.
When the heat and UV are in separate bulbs like in a vivarium, the heat bulb would be safer thermostatically controlled to prevent overheating. Your tortoise should also always have a distinct basking area and cooler escape area, which can be mid - high 20’s.
At night it is safe for your tortoise to be kept at room temperature with no bulbs used, so long as this doesn't fall below 15 - 20°C. This drop in temperature is natural in the wild habitat of your tortoise and is relevant in creating night and day periods.
UVB, as briefly mentioned above, is also a necessity for your tortoise. Your tortoise will require a high level UVB tube or the basking D3 if in a tortoise table. This UVB is essential in metabolising key nutrients such as calcium, preventing metabolic bone disease and deterioration of shell health. UVB tubes also contain UVA which is essential in your animal’s eyesight.
Dependent on your enclosure type and the brand of the bulb, your UV will need changing every 6 - 10 months, as after this period your UV will be ineffective and not benefiting your animal.
UV should be used in a 12-hour cycle, being switched off at night to allow for a distinguishable day and night period. Tortoises are often kept away from the UV bulb too long when allowed to roam all day, this can be just as detrimental as not providing the UV and should be considered.
Water
Tortoises should have constant access to a shallow water dish in their enclosure. Remember their shape means they are unable to lift their heads too high or climb over the edge of a deep bowl. Tap water can be used in their dish and should be changed daily as they will often use this for bathing as well as drinking.
You can also offer your tortoise a bath every now and then for an extra bathing opportunity, shedding aid and re-hydration. Ensure water used for bathing is warm but not too hot. As the water cools your tortoise will lose heat.
Diet
You will be feeding your tortoise solely on vegetation, incorporating a good mix of leafy greens and garden weeds as well as some vegetables and fruit as an occasional treat. This kind of diet tends to be nutritionally richer and more natural to your tortoise than commercially available tortoise pellet.
Guides are readily available online and in books for tortoise safe vegetables, garden greens and fruit and should be researched thoroughly before anything is provided as there are a few items that could be detrimental to your tortoises health.
You will also need to supplement the diet of your tortoise with calcium and multivitamin which come in the form of powders to be dusted on top of any food provided. The Calcium will be provided 5 days in a week with the multi vitamin being provided 2 days.
Both are essential in keeping your tortoise healthy. Cuttlebone is another great way of providing calcium and even assists in keeping down the tortoises beak as it chews, providing this however doesn't mean the powder isn't needed.
Decor
Hides and other décor should be available to your tortoise. Although they cannot climb too high, they will benefit from tunnels, hills, foliage, rocks and bark pieces in terms of mental stimulation and exercise. These will also help your tortoise shed and, rocks especially will prevent extensive nail growth. Changing things around every now and then keeps your tortoise interested.
Shopping list
- Vivarium / Table
- Heat source
- Guard/Protector
- Thermostat (bulb dependent)
- UVB Lighting
- Thermometer
- Hygrometer
- Water bowl
- Substrate
- Hides
- Door lock/ wedge
- Decoration
- Calcium and Multivitamin
- Cleaning Equipment
- Cuttlebone / tortoise block
Species fact file
Name(s): Hermann’s, Spur-thighed and Marginated tortoise
Scientific name(s): Testudo hermanni, graeca and marginata
Lifespan: 80 - 100 years
Length: 7 - 14 inches (species Dependent)
Temperament: Usually Docile, timid
Origin: Countries surrounding the Mediterranean
Vivarium Size: 5ft x 3ft Minimum
Temperature gradient: 20 - 32°C
Humidity: 40 - 50%
Lighting: high-level UVB
Feeding: Vegetation
Mediterranean tortoise, Testudo sp., husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
Royal Pythons are native to sub-Saharan Africa and are widely distributed across the continent. Their preferred habitat includes savannah, grasslands and forested areas.
They can often be found invading mammal burrows, termite mounds or logs, and as a nocturnal species, this is where they will spend the majority of their day. They are also commonly known as ball pythons, from the ball posture they adopt.
Royals are terrestrial (ground-dwelling,) by nature, although they can often be found weaving through low branches and vegetation. A constricting species, they first locate prey using heat pits and chemical senses through the tongue before striking, coiling and squeezing their prey to death. Despite this, the species has a timid nature.
Housing
Adults require a vivarium of 4x2x2ft but for juveniles partition this off or house them in a smaller viv to start with and upgrade later.
Substrates
Line the vivarium with moisture-retaining substrates like soil and orchid bark as this species requires moderate humidity. Change the substrate every 4-6 weeks to prevent bacteria build-up.
Your vivarium should incorporate a number of hiding places with at least one at either end of the vivarium. Enrich the enclosure with foliage, logs, bark, branches, rocks and tunnels. By creating a stimulating environment your python will remain active and in good body condition.
Heating
Snakes cannot regulate their own body temperature so require a good heat source to remain in good health. The best quality heating system is a heat lamp or ceramic with protection and controlled by a thermostat. This will need to be set to 30-32°C on one side of the vivarium, with another cooler area at the other side in the mid-20s°C.
Temperatures should be maintained for 12 hours throughout the day, after which there can be a night time drop to 15-20°C. This can be achieved just by turning vivarium heat sources off overnight in the average household.
Lighting
The vivarium should be lit with UVB, as your snake would naturally be exposed to this in the wild via daylight. Light in a 12-hour cycle in conjunction with heating, to distinguish night and day. With UVB the bulb should be replaced every 6-12 months depending on the style and brand, as after this, the UV will no longer be effective.
Humidity
Spray your vivarium daily to maintain sufficient humidity levels. Spraying, moss, suitable substrates and a large water dish will all raise humidity levels, which are essential during shedding. Water can be tap water and should be changed at least every couple of days to prevent bacteria growth. Humidity should be measured using an accurate hygrometer, and temperature an accurate thermometer.
Feeding
Royal pythons are a heavy-bodied species and require prey items with high protein content like rats, hamsters and multimammate mice. Royals can become fussy feeders so introducing less nutritionally valuable prey like normal mice and chicks too regularly can put them off more nutritional items.
As your snake grows, it won’t have to feed once a week as a juvenile would, and starve-weeks are a crucial part of keeping the growth rate steady and the snake at a good weight. After feeding your python will need at least two days without handling to ensure the stress of being handled doesn't cause regurgitation.
Shopping list
- Vivarium
- Heat source
- Guard/Protector
- Thermostat
- UVB/LED Lighting
- Thermometer
- Hygrometer
- Water bowl
- Substrate
- Hides
- Door lock/ wedge
- Decoration
- Cleaning Equipment
- Tweezers
The Swell Royal python starter kit - Gold is available here.
Species fact file
Name: Royal python, Ball python
Scientific name: Python regius
Origin: Africa
Lifespan: 20 - 30 years
Length: 4 - 5ft
Temperament: Docile, easily tamed
Vivarium Size: 4ft x 2ft x 2ft
Temperature gradient: 22 - 32°C
Humidity: 50 - 60%
Lighting: Low UVB / LED
Feeding: Defrosted mammals
Royal python, Python regius, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.