Is there such thing as a good reptile for beginners? 

Do you think certain reptiles are easier to keep than others?

Which reptile would you recommend to those who are just starting out?

We recently asked our Facebook friends and customers about beginner reptiles. The term "beginner reptile" is something we see used a lot by people across the globe. Whether it's bearded dragons, corn snakes, leopard geckos, Crested geckos, or another reptile species, everyone seems to have their own idea as to which reptile is the "easiest" to keep. Read on to see what our friends on social media, and reptile advisor Ben had to say.

Louise Mayall"Corn snakes make a lovely introduction to keeping reptiles. Their requirements aren't complicated and they are very docile"

Antony Williams "Tortoises are easy so long as you get professional advice from the start".

Jade Cox: "Bearded dragons are not a beginners reptile. They need a lot of care, fecal testing and money. I don't see any reptile being for a beginner. Before getting a reptile everyone should research for months beforehand".

Paul Batchelor: "Why start with something you're not interested in keeping? With in depth research etc most things can be kept with out "experience" after all how is a bearded dragon going to teach you about keeping a green tree python or anything other than a bearded dragon?"

Louise Hanson: "Yes some species are easier to keep than others. But with plenty of research and thought there's no reason to limit yourself to the starter species. I have corns and leos and they are fab animals but you have to be interested in the species otherwise you are doing them an injustice".

Edd Cassells: "Toads, easy peasy".

Ryan Cox: "Komodo dragons".

Anthony Didsbury: "Leopard gecko or corn snakes as they don't require much in the way of set up".

Greg Auramance Reeves: "In my opinion, no. A set up isn't tricky to organise, and with all species you have to know the temperatures, humidity and diet as a very basic start point. I don't believe there is ever a good starter pet".

Lawrie Debnam: "A crested gecko".

Jamie Kelemen: "Obviously a corn snake or a leopard gecko are the best to start with but as with all animals you still need to do your research".

Thomas Lewis Cox: "Research is good but it can only go so far you need hands on experience to be able to understand their needs and also someone who you know who has kept the reptile before so that you can go to them whenever you need advice".

Gill Briggs: "Crested geckos - they eat very little, can live off gel food and so if you don't like the thought of live insects it's great. Once tame they are great pets".

Frankenfurter Columbia: "Bearded dragon or blue tongue skink. Both easy to look after, easy to handle and not a lot of problems".

Iain Mortimer: "Easiest is the one you want the most, the one that as a result you have researched the most, and so the one you are confident to look after and be able to afford. The easiest to look after solely on needs could be the one that's most abused if not really wanted or found to be boring".

Dionne Austin: "Corn snakes and tortoises are the best. Beardies are hard to look after if you're a beginner".

Jo Smith: "People have to start somewhere when owning reptiles. Saying that none of them are for beginners is daft. My first reptile was my beautiful beardie. He's 11 years old now and still going strong because I have cared for him properly. They're tough cookies! I have a crestie, leo and a firebelly toad. Beardies would be what I recommend to someone wanting a lizard".

Swell Reptile advisor, Ben Mudderman has offered his opinion: "Different reptiles have different requirements, and there is no one size fits all set up. Some reptiles are more demanding than others, but this isn't to say that the reptiles with less specialist needs are more ideal for beginners than those with more complex needs. With suitable research, correct care, and careful budgeting, it is possible for anyone to own a reptile. But saying that, you could be an expert at keeping bearded dragons, only to feel completely overwhelmed with a python snake!

If you are thinking about getting your first reptile, please give us a call on 0161 351 4700, and we can advise you on the appropriate set up and requirements for the species you have in mind. We also have a selection of blog posts which offer an array of advice for beginners, so follow us on Facebook, Twitter @SwellReptiles and Google+ for regular updates".

Is there such thing as a good reptile for beginners? Do you think certain reptiles are easier to keep than others? Read our help guide to find out.

We've shared quite a few photos recently of our customers' children posing happily holding snakes, beardies, geckos and lots of other reptiles.

Many of our customers and friends believe that reptiles are harmless and beautiful creatures and they think that it's best to introduce your children to these animals early on in life to teach them how amazing reptiles and exotic pets can be!

But there are people who have their doubts. We asked our Facebook and Twitter friends whether they have any reservations when it comes to letting their kids play with reptiles.

Iain Mortimer believes that it's best to get children interested in reptiles at a young age. He said: "You'll make them realise that reptiles aren't nasty, bitey, slimey, evil things as many of their parents may believe and in doing so often educated a number of parents too. A number of my reptiles have been into my daughter's infant school for exactly that reason and I'd encourage everyone else to approach teachers to let them do the same".

Lindsay Gibbons agrees. "We had a reptile party for my daughter's 4th birthday and all the children had the most amazing time. They're fearless at that age, they were handling hissing roaches, lizards, snakes, anything handed to them!"

Faye Smith takes her snakes to a local scout group to show the kids real life reptiles. "It's shocking to see how many parents don't want their children touching the snakes, but the kids really want to. I think it's the parents who need to be taught. This is me in the paper with a few of the beavers".

Hygiene

But not everyone is convinced. Grace O'Donnell says: "Although it's nice to introduce kids and reptiles, my 9-year-old sister loves our beardie, Rive, do you not worry about how ill they can get from being near a reptile? The chances of salmonella are high and I'd personally not let a pregnant woman or child under 5 too near! It's common sense to wash your hands, but I just think if I let a child near my reptiles and they did get ill I'd feel really bad".

Gareth Goss agrees that reptile owners need to take hygiene into account and be wary of the germs that can be found in reptiles. "A lot of reptiles can carry harmful germs. I think people should be more aware of this and hygiene is paramount especially around young children".

Rough handling

Sophie Bennett is another reptile owner who has her reservations, but while Grace and Gareth worry that her kids might get ill, Sophie is concerned about rough handling of reptiles. "As a general rule I won't allow small children near my Leo. She has some health problems and I really don't want her to lose her precious tail. However, they can play with the snakes as much as they want".

Sophie isn't the only one concerned about handling, many owners are concerned that their kids might hurt their reptiles. Raina Kirkham-Cope said: "As long as the child isn't grabby and is supervised and washes their hands before and afterwards I don't see the problem".

Supervision

Supervision seems to be the best way to ensure both the child and reptile stays happy. And Sarah McKie believes that it is key. "My daughter is 8. She's allowed to handle our chili rose, royals, burmese, leopard geckos and bearded dragon with out supervision but never alone. The only thing she's not allowed to handle at all is sailfin dragon".

Val Yasar said: "My agamas are too flighty to be held but the elder Grandkids can hold my beardie. With the younger ones I'll hold their hands and help them stroke the beardie in case they are too rough. Hopefully they will learn to be gentle that way".

Rachel Atterton said "Personally I believe that children will only learn to respect animals if they have experiences with them. It's an important life lesson, not least because ANY animal can turn aggressive or hostile if not treated with respect. Obviously you have to know your animals and the children concerned. But handling animals in a safe environment with supervision and clear rules is good for children, and it can be fun. It might even start a life long interest!"

Rules

Iain Mortimer has a specific set of rules which his children have been taught to follow before handling reptiles.

"1. They need to show respect for animals and understand that they are not toys.

2. Demonstrated that they have good control of their grip.

3. Washed their hands under supervision.

4. Can only hold something that is docile and not skittish to prevent them from tightening grip when the reptile crawls away.

5. The child must be closely supervised.

6. Must wash hands afterwards under supervision.

7. Must understand that they must never try to handle a reptile without asking first."

Iain says: "The kids are very good with the reptiles. The youngest in particular is known for reminding everyone else of the rules.

"It concerns me that reptiles get a bad reputation for bacteria because they are no worse than cats or dogs and even fish tanks can hold some nasty bugs".

Spiders

Michelle Stapleton: "I think spiders should only be handled by adults as they are very delicate and Brachs in particular have those nasty hairs! Personally I would not let any children near anything other than something harmless like a stick insect! I'd be too afraid they'd squeeze or drop my snakes!"

Ruth Robson: "My kids are allowed to handle my non-aggressive snakes but they aren't allowed to handle my tarantula. I don't believe that they should be handled. They are not allowed to kiss the reptiles and they have to wash their hands straight after".

Childminder, Amanda Stitson said: "I do allow the children to handle the snakes and the beardie, but they are shown how to handle correctly first and introduced to the animals slowly. They are supervised at all times and have to wash their hands before and afterwards, as much for my animals benefit as their own.

"I believe that introducing children to a range of animals at an early age and actually educating them about them, helps to teach them compassion and respect for other living things and helps to refuce and in some cases treat irrational fears. The only animals I would exclude are those who show a nervous or aggressive temperament. And that would be the same for all animals, not just reptiles and inverts".

Do reptiles make good pets for children? Some can, but there are a few things to consider before getting your child a pet reptiles. Read our guide to find out.

"Do your research," is Ben's biggest piece of advice to any budding reptile keeper. His second tip is not to buy the reptile before the equipment.

Often flustered new owners will call Swell saying, I've just bought a Bearded dragon or Royal python and have nowhere to put it can you help...

Ben's current collection of reptiles includes three bearded dragons, a boa, four Yemen chameleons three turtles and a Horsfield tortoise.

The beardies live in VivExotic Viva Vivariums, the boa in an X-Tend modular setup, the Yemens in a ReptiBreeze and the turtles in an Exo Terra turtle terrarium. Technically the tortoise has a tortoise table but, Ben says, he just has the run of the house.

His menagerie isn't limited to herps though, as Ben reels off an impressive collection of birds and beasts. "Two love birds, two budgies, four rabbits, four ducks, two dogs, two cats, two fishtanks and a hamster named Ted."

His long-suffering girlfriend "leaves me to it."

Ben's first reptile was a black rat snake (pictured) which he rescued while working for the RSPCA. This was enough to get him hooked on herps and then around 17 years ago he moved onto lizards, adding a leopard gecko to his collection along with corn snakes and royal pythons.

The only reptile he wishes to add to his collection is a caiman - we're not sure if he's joking and suspect not...

For beginners, the three reptiles Ben would recommend are corn snakes, leopard geckos and in third place bearded dragons. Although beardies are popular for newbies, the need for UV makes them more demanding than leos.

According to Ben, beardies and chameleons are leading the pack as the UK's most popular reptiles, but he reckons this could change when  Leonardo, Donatello, Raphael and Michaelangelo return to our screens.

"When animals feature on the telly this often leads to a lot of neglect and unwanted pets."

And this is the part of the job that Ben enjoys the most, teaching members of the public how to keep their reptiles healthy and happy.

“Do your research,” is Ben’s biggest piece of advice to any budding reptile keeper. His second tip is not to buy the reptile before the equipment.

Bearded dragons, Rankin's dragons and similar Australian species

The natural habitat for the Bearded dragons and its Pogona cousins is the Australian Outback. Therefore the beardie's natural environment is hot, under the glare of the baking hot sun. It is dry and it is quite desert-like. So to set up a bearded dragon environment this is what we need to replicate. One of our decent-sized vivariums is a good place to start. The wood of the viv is a superb insulator for the heat that is required. For a beardie we need about 10% UVB so that the dragon can convert this to vitamin D and in turn to calcium to build healthy bones. Traditionally sand or calcium sand is used as a substrate for bearded dragons, but many reptile keepers fear that the beardie could eat the sand and become constipated, leading to a condition called impaction. Such a condition is rare if the beardie is feeding correctly but to be on the safe side a substrate like Cage Carpet can be used and you can also make a non-loose bedding using something like lino. A great food for beardies is crickets and locusts. If you don't like the chirping of crickets, silent brown crickets are advisable. They will also eat salad leaves such as spinach. If in doubt check out our bearded dragon starter kits.

Leopard geckos

Leopard geckos are a nocturnal species. Unlike the bearded dragon they don't live in baking hot conditions. They are native to places like Pakistan and Afghanistan where it is warm but not hot. The natural habitat is warm, dry and dusty. Leos are the ideal pet for people who are at work all day and come home just in time to see them at their finest. If a leo sheds its tail it can also re-grow one. The main diet of a leo are locusts and meal worms but you can also reward them with a wax worm. For heat you should always have a hot spot and a cooler area within your vivarium, with the hot spot having a temperature between 85 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. For more information check out our Leopard gecko care sheet and leopard gecko starter kits.

Crested geckos and similar rainforest species

Crested geckos are native to the rainforests of New Caledonia, near Polynesia. Their habitat is not dry like a leopard gecko's nor hot like a bearded dragon's. The crestie's habitat is a warm, humid leafy jungle where the forest canopies shield the reptiles from the harsh glare of the sun. A glass terrarium is better for a crested gecko because it holds the humidity better than a wooden viv. You should also provide some hide and climbing areas with branches, logs and real / silk plants. Crested geckos love fruit and the Repashy foods are ideal for them. A damp hide box should be available at all times to help with shedding (a plastic container with a hole in the lid, with moist soil or moss inside). For a habitat that has all you need, see our crested gecko starter kits.

Corn snakes, milk snakes and king snakes

Snakes known as 'colubrids' are generally native to places like the Carolinas in the southern USA. It goes without saying therefore that their habitat is neither desert nor jungle but the American woodland. Therefore a woody environment is perfect and you can start with a substrate like aspen bedding. Corn snakes should be fed frozen and thawed mice (or small rats for larger corn snakes). Hatchlings should be started out on pinkie mice for feeding and the size of the prey should be increased as the snake grows. Young growing snakes should be fed a couple of times a week, while adults only need to be fed one appropriately sized rat every 7-10 days.

Read our basic care guide covering some of the most popular beginner reptiles, including Bearded dragons, Leopard geckos and Crested geckos.

1) Corn Snake
Corn snakes and their cousins the milk snake and king snake are a quiet, tame snake that can live for around 23 years. Great to feed and easy to look after.

2) Ball python (royal python)
Royal pythons are an under-rated snake. They have a greater girth than a corn snake and have beautiful colours and markings.

3) Leopard gecko
These little fellas may frequent the types of places we tend to send squadrons of soldiers to, but don't worry the leo won't terrorise your house. These easy going little cuties are nocturnal so don't need a lot of special UV lighting.

4) Bearded dragon
Without a doubt one of the most popular of all pets. Beardies are so tame and cute but a note of caution - they take a lot of feeding and can get a bit smelly.

5) Chameleon
Whether you opt for a panther chameleon or a Yemen chameleon, these colourful little fellas with give you endless fascination. A pleasure to watch them 'hunting' their live food.

Check out our guide on the five most popular pet reptiles in the United Kingdom, to help you decide on which pet to bring home!

Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius), also affectionately known as ‘leos’, might be a common enough sight among the reptile forums, but the big question we should be asking is why. The simple answer is that whether you’re a dedicated breeder or simply looking for a family-friendly pet, these relatively small desert reptiles offer something for everyone at a price that won’t twist your tail.

According to Shaune one of the reasons this type of lizard is so popular is because leopard gecko care is pretty straightforward compared with other varieties of lizard. “Because they’re a desert reptile they require minimal equipment, stay nice and small and are generally easy to keep”, says Shaune.

These friendly desert reptiles can also be the perfect way to introduce your kids to leopard gecko care. Native to the hot desert landscape of southern Central Asia, these are ground-dwelling, nocturnal reptiles and are the ideal pet for people who are at work all day and come home just in time to see them at their finest.

Shaune said: “They really aren’t a skittish or fast-moving kind of reptile. With regular attention, they come to love being handled and although they won’t usually bite, it is advisable to take care if allowing them to be handled by young children.”

While this type of lizard can be readily handled, especially when observing proper leopard gecko care, it’s always a good idea to be gentle during handling, since like many lizards there is always the potential of ‘dropping’ their tails. Unlike other reptiles such as the crested gecko, the leopard gecko will re-grow their tail, but as Shaune says: “the skin of a leopard gecko is always relatively bobbly, but the regenerated tail never really looks the same and you can obviously tell when a tail has been dropped.”

What to look for

In Shaune’s opinion, a good rule of thumb for buying a leopard gecko is never to buy anything under 20g, which equals out to about 4 inches in length. Shaune said: “When looking to buy this reptile it shouldn’t be skin and bone. And always take a look at the tail”, referring the tell-tale signs of a dropped tail. However a dropped tail is not in itself a sure sign of poor leopard gecko care. Other tell-tail signs for a healthy leopard gecko include clear, bright eyes and the absence of any leftover shed skin.

Leopard gecko care

Another great attraction of the leopard gecko is how relatively cheap and easy they are to obtain and leopard gecko care being so straightforward. Common varieties of Leopard geckos are available from most reputable retailers for around £30. And when it comes to the varieties of leopard geckos available Shaune said: “There are literally hundreds of varieties available, ranging in price from thirty quid to as high as a thousand pounds for the famous ‘white and yellow’ morphs.”

These fabled ‘white and yellow’ morphs are currently considered the elite variety of leopard gecko and are much sought after as a product of advanced leopard gecko care, as they offer clean, vivid colours and are highly prized as reptile pets. This is part of the great attraction of leopard geckos, with exciting variations of morphs being created all the time.

One of the most common questions Shaune is asked by the novice reptile keeper is how to tell the sex of their reptiles. “Sexing the leopard gecko is fairly straightforward compared to some other reptiles, but it can be confusing when you’re first starting out.

Both a female and male will have a noticeable ‘V’ shape between their back legs. With males this ‘V’ shape will be accompanied by two pronounced sacks, and lots of little pores, known as pre-anal pores dotted around the general area”, says Shaune. It should also be pointed out that these sacks can be difficult to see in young leopard geckos and may require a magnifying glass.

The leopard gecko diet

Although the staple diet of the leopard gecko is insects, such as locusts and meal worms, you can also treat them with the occasional wax worm. “If you really want to show off the leopard gecko, the best way is to feed it wax worm as a rare treat.” This is something equivalent to us eating a bag of sweets for breakfast, it might tickle your taste buds, but isn’t really doing your body any favours in the long run.

A common concern of leopard gecko care for desert reptiles in captivity is towards a condition called ‘impaction’. Very basically this is when over-excited, younger leopard geckos will ingest a small amount of sand when hunting and if this is done regularly they will become bunged up.

Shaune said: “Problems arise in this area when conditions aren’t right. For example, if the heat mat isn’t turned up high enough or the reptile isn’t getting enough calcium.” However if these conditions are optimal then ingested sand will usually pass through the reptiles system with no problem. A useful alternative if you choose not to use the standard sand is to use cage carpet.

Since good nutrition is an essential part of good leopard gecko care, Shaune pointed out that hatchlings and juveniles that are still developing will obviously require more food and nutrients than fully grown adults and as a result he says that it is a good idea to sprinkle the live food and mealworms with calcium and multivitamins.

As insectivores the staple diet of the leopard gecko is insects, but it is always a good idea to keep mealworms in a feeding dish, to ensure that they are always getting a steady source of nutrients, especially in cases of younger juvenile reptiles.

The Leopard gecko habitat

A suitable habitat is another important factor of good leopard gecko care. Shaune says: “They usually max out at about eight to 10 inches with the males, with females being a bit smaller”, says Shaune. He goes on to say: “if two males have been raised together from hatchling they might be capable of co-habiting, but when keeping two leopard geckos together pairing two females together is a better idea, unless you’re interested in breeding.”

According to Shaune a huge benefit to keeping a desert reptile, such as the leopard gecko is that as you progress as a reptile keeper and perhaps decide to get more reptiles, you are still able to keep the same accessories and equipment, meaning that all you need is a new reptile enclosure.

Shaune was quick to point out that bigger is not always better. “Especially with juvenile leopard geckos that need plenty of nutrition, having too much space for live food to escape can mean the difference between a well-fed and hungry reptile.

So that your leopard gecko has everything it needs to thrive, Swell offer a variety of leopard gecko starter kits, ranging from budget kits to beginner and finally advanced kits that answer all of your leopard gecko care needs. These include the essential items of heat mat, sand substrate, feeding dish and the essential addition of an attractive coconut hide for this nocturnal reptile to hideaway. A thermostat is also advisable to ensure that the heat mat maintains a comfortable range between 85 – 90F.

When choosing a starter kit Shaune strongly recommends the Swell Leopard Gecko Kit- Beginner, for younger leopard geckos. Whereas if you choose to purchase a larger leopard gecko it would be better to purchase the Swell Leopard Gecko Kit – Gold, as this provides the additional space required by larger reptiles.

Another point to consider with leopard gecko care is the need for UV exposure. Although it is not considered essential to leopard geckos, Shaune explains that some people have claimed that they benefit from a very mild 2.0 UV exposure. However, in Shaune’s experience these reptiles will be happy with natural daylight and do not enjoy bright lights. Instead choose a dark blue light, which still allows you to clearly view the reptile without distressing them.

The key to a good leopard gecko habitat

If you should decide to take one of these adorable reptiles into your home like with any reptile there are a few key pieces of information that will ensure a stress-free relationship. These points include the basic points, such as temperature, lighting and general health queries. To help keep things nice and simple Shaune has outlined what he thinks are some of the important points.

Shaune says: “Ideally you should always have a hot spot and a cooler area within your vivarium, with the hot spot having a temperature between 85 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.” He was also quick to stress that nighttime temperatures should be reduced slightly to between 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. This is also why using a good quality temperature gauge is so important in good leopard gecko care, allowing a loving owner to make sure that the reptile stays comfortable.

When asked about humidity Shaune cleared up my confusion by explaining that as desert reptiles leopard geckos do not require a great deal of humidity, with only one exception. “Shedding is very important to reptiles and with hatchlings you can expect this to happen every two to four weeks and less frequency as they mature, to eventually settle down into a pattern of something between every six to eight weeks.”

The reason Shaune wanted to get this across is due to reptiles need for humidity during the shedding process, explaining a few horror stories of leopard geckos losing fingers with their shedding if they lack adequate humidity. He says: “as soon as your reptile starts to take on a ghostly, opaque look you want to get some sphagnum moss filled with moisture in a small pot or hide.” This is apparently the ideal medium to help the reptile in its shedding process.

And if there’s any remaining doubt as to the Leo being a great first reptile you need only to look into those little sparkling eyes (moving eyelids being a defining feature of the leopard gecko) and the only doubt you’ll have is over how many of these cute critters to get.

If you would like to learn more about reptile care, take a look at our Crested Gecko guide.

Leopard geckos, also affectionately known as ‘leos’, might be a common sight among the reptile forums, but the big question we should be asking is why.

The Bearded dragon needs no introduction to readers of this blog (if it does check out our Bearded dragon guide), but while the beardie (Pogono vitticeps) is ever-popular, its relative Lawson's Dragon (Pogona henrylawsoni) is also proving popular.

Lawson's Dragon was only formally identified in 1985 and is named after the Australian author Henry Lawson. It is also known as Rankin's dragon, dumpy dragon, dwarf dragon or Pogona brevis.

Lawson's Dragon only grows to about 12 inches and has a lifespan of around eight years. They don't have a pronounced beard like their cousin the Pogona vitticeps, either.

These dragons are sociable and can be kept in groups of males and females. They are unlikely to fight and have a clear social hierarchy indicated by the dominant individual bobbing its head. The endearing response by the others is to wave their "arms".

Lawson's dragon also has a strange habit of opening its eyes so wide they seem to pop out of the sockets!

Housing

A compact vivarium of at least 36" would be ideal to house a pair of these dragons. Set up your vivarium with a temperature gradient ranging from about 33C to about 24C.

These dragons enjoy a sand substrate and maybe some wood chips as they like to bury themselves at night and have somewhere to dig.

They like to climb too so consider some woody decor like Sumatra Wood. They also like something to sit on when they are basking like a Habba Hut or Basking Platform.

As Lawson's Dragon are native to the baking hot sun of Queensland, they need a high UVB of about 10% so the Repti Glo 10.0 would be ideal.

Like bearded dragons, they are unfussy eaters - give them mealworms, crickets, vegetables and they also like a cuttle bone.

Some people who keep these dragons like to include a water bowl for them to bathe in - just make sure you keep it clean.

The bearded dragon needs no introduction to readers of this blog, but while the beardie is ever-popular, its relative Lawson’s Dragon is also proving popular.

What are they and where do they come from?

The Veiled Chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus) is found in the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia and mountain regions of Yemen, so it is sometimes called the Yemen Chameleon.

How big are they?

They can be about two feet long, with half of this tail.

How long do they live?

In captivity, they can live around seven years.

What kind of a tank do I need?

We recommend a mesh flexarium for the Yemen chameleon because they don't need a lot of humidity and the mesh surround stops them from feeling stressed. Some people do prefer a vivarium so it's down to individual choice (there are plenty of great models from Exo Terra and VivExotic to choose from). Sometimes seeing its own reflection can cause stress to the chameleon. Our office Panther Chameleon is kept in a glass terrarium with regular trips around the office.

What sort of light heat does it need?

You should provide a glow lamp with a moderate to high UVB output, similar to that of shady environments such as rain forests and other tropical locations such as a Repti Glo. We also recommend a ceramic reptile heat lamp controlled with a thermostat.

What else do I need in my tank?

Chameleons are an arboreal reptile and love to climb so you should provide vines, plants and ladders. Chameleons don't like drinking still water - they prefer to drink from waterfalls, rainwater and from dew on leaves so instead of a water dish you could consider a water dripper system.

What does it eat?

Crickets are part of a staple diet – you could also consider wax worms and mealworms once a week as a treat.

What are the positives about Chameleons?

They are great fun to watch feed – especially as they have such a long flicking tongue. They also change colour, typically from yellow to dark green.

What are the negatives about Chameleons?

They can be quite grumpy and surly as pets and need regular misting, particularly in a mesh terrarium.

The Veiled Chameleon is found in the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia and mountain regions of Yemen.

What are they and where do they come from?

Green iguanas can be found throughout Central and South America and are one of the most popular larger lizards kept in captivity. They are commonly referred to as the green or red iguana and are scientifically referred to as ‘Iguana iguana’.

How big are they?

A fully grown green iguana can reach sizes as large as 4-5 feet in length.

How long do they live?

They are capable of living anywhere between 15 and 20+ years.

What kind of tank do I need?

Growing up to five feet or larger, these animals will need to be housed in a large enclosure. New hatchlings and younger iguanas will need a terrarium that is large enough to support their large size.

What sort of heat does it need?

Your green iguana is a tropical animal, meaning it will require strong heating. A 5.0 UV bulb is ideal for providing Green Iguanas with the vital rays that they require. Green iguana temperatures: daytime – 80-85 degrees, nighttime – 75-80 degrees, basking spot – 95-100 degrees Fahrenheit. These particular reptiles do not require a high humidity environment.

What sort of light does it need?

UVB lighting is highly important to the green iguana, to allow them to process calcium. In the absence of UVB lighting they will develop highly dangerous health issues, such as Metabolic Bone Disease.

UVB lighting, such as the Zoo Med Reptisun 5.0 UVB should be turned off at night but provide 10-12 hours per day of UVB exposure to your Green Iguana.

What else do I need in my tank?

Calcium, such as the Exo Terra Calcium +D3 Supplements are an essential addition to their diet and should be added to food as directed. This will allow your reptile to avoid calcium deficiency.
What does it eat?

Although they enjoy a varied green diet they do enjoy the occasional treat such as the Lucky Reptile Fruit Mix. For an adult-sized Iguana, the Zoo Med Natural Adult Iguana Food includes everything required to preserve long term health and nutrition.

What are the positives about green iguanas?

Green iguanas are highly popular as their appearance is unique and aesthetically pleasing, and are affectionately thought of to look like mini-dinosaurs.

As a larger pet they are considered challenging, with strong characters. However, they are known to be tame when handled regularly.

What are the negatives about green iguanas?

They are very large and powerful animals and should not be kept by novices.

Green iguanas can be found throughout Central and South America and are one of the most popular larger lizards kept in captivity.