UVB lighting is a hugely important aspect of reptile keeping, for almost all species. The hobby is starting to realise that our outdated views of UV lighting, especially for nocturnal species and snakes, is incorrect. The way in which we provide our UV is also changing, with the introduction of products such as the Arcadia ProT5 kits. These come as an all-in-one unit, which is much more preferable than the use of bulky controller for powering fluorescent tube bulbs.
But why is UV so important? Most people know that it’s essential for reptile health, but what does it actually do within their bodies?
The UVB that we provide for our reptiles is a replication of what we receive naturally from the sun, mimicking the UV-B rays. The sun emits 3 main sunlight rays. UV-A is visual light, that allows us to see, and that comes from the sun and from our light bulbs within our reptile enclosures, usually their heat bulb. This UV-A is also very important, as it allows our bodies to follow the day and night cycle, keeping us in a good rhythm. This is why it’s not recommended for you to use lit-up electronics late at night, as the UV-A from them can throw off your circadian rhythm and upset your natural day and night balance.
There is also UV-C that comes from the sun, which is the harmful rays that cause skin burn, and is largely blocked out by the ozone layer. UV-C rays are utilised in many ways, including in fish filtration, by replicating it and using it to kill microorganisms within the water.
The last type, UV-B, is what we’re interested in. When the skin (reptile or human) is exposed to the UV-B rays it is able to take this and convert that into a previtamin D, and then a Vitamin D, which is in fact a hormone. This is then able to very effectively travel around the body in the bloodstream, where is it used almost throughout – almost all the cells and organs that are within the body have a Vitamin D receptor.
It is best known in reptile terms for regulating the phosphate and calcium levels. It allows for the effective use and storage of calcium, ensuring that bones are kept strong and healthy, and avoiding health issues such as metabolic bone disorder.
But it is also used for the production of other hormones, by helping to transmit nerve impulses to the brain, and also for the strengthening of the immune system, as well as maintaining muscle strength. It becomes very important for fertility, both in conceiving, with the boost in sperm counts, as well as during pregnancy, where the NHS recommends all pregnant women take a Vitamin D supplement, due to the improvement of immunity and the decreased risk of infections and pre-eclampsia. All of these count for both human and reptiles, and so you start to see the true benefit of Vitamin D, and therefore the importance of providing the UVB lighting, along with the correct supplementation, to our reptiles.
In a captive sense, where our reptiles must have a form of processed UVB, the use of supplements is also important, as they need the calcium to be provided in order for the Vitamin D to store and utilise it correctly. If they are lacking in either calcium or the correct UVB, they will be unable to use the other correctly within the body, causing firstly metabolic bone disorder, but also the chance of more infections, lower fertility rates, and other potential hormonal balances, and their subsequent consequences.
So the question is, are you providing the right UVB for your reptiles? And are you yourself getting enough Vitamin D?
Learn how UVB affects your reptiles health, from vitamin D3 synthesis to calcium assimilation inside from the experts at Swell Reptiles.
UVB Lighting Part 2 Sunbeam or Shaded?
In our last post, we talked about methods of lighting your reptile enclosure. These came down to two main focuses – the Sunbeam method or Shaded method. It was seen from the work done by Frances Baines and co, in their latest publication on Journal of Zoo and Aquarium Research, that reptiles can be categorised into Ferguson Zones, as originally laid out by Dr Gary Ferguson. Within these zones, there is a UV Index range, a description of the species behaviour, and also a specific method by which they should be given their UV, as seen here;
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So what is the difference between the Sunbeam and Shaded method? And how can you be sure to provide them in the correct way in captivity? Due to the huge variety in reptiles, there is obviously differences in how they get all their required needs, from food to water, and through to lighting as well, including both UV and heat for energy.
It was found by Dr Ferguson that Zones 1 and 2 did better with a method of lighting called Shaded, whilst reptiles that needed higher UV, those in Zones 3 and 4, did best with the Sunbeam method. There are instances where the Sunbeam method is preferred for Zone 2 species, mainly if the enclosure is particularly large.
Shaded Method
The Shaded Method is designed for low level UV, and is really giving an UV Index reading of up to 1.0. This technique is designed to cover a large volume of an enclosure with low level UV, namely as “background” UVB. This is for species that either come out mainly at dawn and dusk (crepuscular), or spend most of their time in shade or partial shade. It can be extended for those that occasionally bask as well.
The main purpose of this is to provide UV across a proportion of the enclosure, so the most popular choice of bulb will be fluorescent UVB strip, mainly T8, though T5 may be suitable for some species. The same effect could be created with multiple compact bulbs in a canopy style hood on a glass terrarium as well though. The aim is to create an area with a maximum UV Index of the specific Zone, either 0.7 or 1.0. This should be in one area, the closest point the reptile could get into, such as on a rock or branch, and then the rest of the enclosure should have much lower levels, leading down to areas with no UV at all, that are completely sheltered.
For our nocturnal species, such as Crested and Leopards, and the snakes we looked at last time, this will mean that they have the option to reach the highest level of UVI for their respective Zone, but that the majority of the time they will be a much lower area of the enclosure, which will create a completely naturalistic environment. To get some ideas of specific data here, let’s look at them in more depth:
Crested Geckos, Tokay Geckos and other Zone 1 arboreal species
These are usually housed in a glass terrarium, so would have the lighting set up with either a strip UV bulb above the mesh (losing around 30-40% of the UV by going through the mesh top) or sitting inside, or by the use of a canopy hood with compact fluorescent bulbs in. Each of these set ups would require different bulbs, so how you have your habitat laid out will drastically impact what you need to buy.
To start, if you’re using a strip UV outside of the terrarium, going through mesh, with a highest branch for your Gecko to sit on around 20cm down from the mesh, meaning it is around 25cm away from the bulb itself, and losing 40% through the mesh, then the best bulb would be a ExoTerra Repti Glo 5.0 T8, or even a ZooMed ReptiSun 10.0 T8, which will surprise many keepers. A canopy with compact bulbs, with the same distances, would be best using Exo Terra UVB 100.
However, if using a T8 bulb inside of the enclosure, then an Arcadia 6% T8 would be suitable, at a distance of 20cm from the highest basking branch.
Leopard Geckos, Crocodile Skinks and other Zone 1 terrestrial species
Leopards are usually kept in wooden terrariums, so lighting will be internally, and often at a distance of around 40 – 45cm from ground level, though this needs to take into account the highest point the gecko can get, so most will have a hide or branch they can walk on to gain 5cm at least – so between 35 – 40cm from the bulb. To get the correct readings accurately from a T8 bulb, ideally an Arcadia 12% bulb is best (without reflector), or a ZooMed ReptiSun 10.0. Another option is an Arcadia T5 6% bulb, which would also be suitable (without reflector)
Sometimes Leopards are housed in glass terrariums as well though, so for a bulb to go through the mesh, in a low terrarium of 30cm tall for example, the 6% Arcadia T5 would again be perfect, or if using compact bulbs through the mesh in a canopy, an Arcadia 10% would be more suitable. Quite a step up from providing nothing at all!
Corns, Kings, and other Zone 1 Snakes
Ideally kept in wooden vivariums, these low level snakes will tend to move around the space more freely, so lighting can seem to be more tricky – I personally have 1 Corn that is constantly scaling his decoration and floating around his vivarium, and another that moves along the bottom a lot, but doesn’t venture upwards at all. Although this may seem that these two snakes require different bulbs, in reality you are only offering for the highest level to be at the highest the point the snake goes to – around 15cm from the bulb. Whether they choose to move into the light more or not is their own choice.
In this case, an Arcadia Natural Sunlight 2% T8 is perfect, or an ExoTerra 2.0 T8 could be used, but should have a reflector on to enhance it better.
Royals, Boas, Garters, Hognoses and other Zone 2 Snakes
In a similar set up to those above, snakes of Zone 2 should be using an Arcadia 6% T8, or potentially the 2% with a reflector, based on the optimum distance of around 15cm.
With this method, it is best to create a the UV range over about two-thirds of the vivarium, so if you have a 36” or 3ft vivarium, a bulb only needs to cover around 24” or 2ft, and the bulb should be placed to one side, the hot end, creating a cool end that will have no UV penetration at all, which is more naturalistic for these animals, and then they can move out of the UV completely.
Sunbeam Method
This method is much more naturalistic to the way we think UV should be provided – higher levels given to basking species, the same UV they would be getting directly from the sun whilst sitting out in it to warm up in the mornings. This still tends to be provided through the use of fluorescent strip bulbs, either T8 or T5, but can also be established from combined Mercury Vapour Bulbs or Metal Halide bulbs, which give an intense section of heat and UV, which is great for larger or open top habitats. Strip bulbs need to be set up in the same way as the Shaded method, with the bulb taking up around two-thirds of the enclosure, and off centre to be situated on the heat side, so that the UV is still absorbed whilst basking in heat. This method moves away from what we think of as the “basking spot” and creates more of a basking zone, an area of space that an animal can sit in to fully bask and absorb heat and UV light.
Compact bulbs are rarely suitable for these Zones as they don’t provide high enough levels for the higher UV required, with the exception of the Arcadia 10% compact, which measures up very well, and would be suitable for some species in a canopy set up, as long as they could get within 25cm of the bulb after it has gone through a mesh top.
Chameleons, Day Geckos and other Zone 3 arboreal species
In a standard arboreal terrarium with mesh top, a combined bulb or metal halide tends to be the best option for these species, as they would naturally use the plant life to shelter and move into the heat and light during the day. As this will be above the mesh, losing 30-40%, something like an Arcadia combined bulb 160w would need to be at a distance of around 25-30cm (from bulb to nearest basking branch) for optimum levels, and then the rest of the enclosure would be much lower, providing the required shelter from the UV. Alternatively, the Lucky Reptile Bright Sun 70w (separate ballast required) could be situated at around 20cm.
Bearded Dragons, Plated Lizards, European Tortoises and other terrestrial Zone 3 species
Usually kept in a wooden terrarium, the fluorescent strips are best used, and will tend to be around 40 – 45cm from the top of a hide (or shell!). If your lizard may climb and you provide more decoration, please take into account any extra height. The best bulbs to choose from would be Arcadia T5 12% with reflector, or the new 14% T5 without. If your basking spot is higher, up to 25 – 30cm, remove the reflector to get better ranges, or change to a T8 bulb, such as the ZooMed ReptiSun 10.0 with reflector.
The main thing to remember is that UV doesn’t need to be offered across the length of the vivarium – gone are the day of squeezing in a 46” bulb into a 48” vivarium. It’s important that there is a cool corner that offers a respite, even for a species like Chuckwallas or Uromastyx, which thrive in the heat. Hides will provide that shelter mostly, but animals shouldn’t feel that they are confined to them.
The other important aspect when thinking about UV is to remember that these figures are only relevant and correct when your species is kept at their required temperature, on both the hot end and more ambient zones as well. If they are too hot, they will move out of the heat and miss out on UV they may have otherwise required, or vice versa, spend more time in UV than optimum in order to gain enough warmth. Ideally, get hold of a UV Index meter, to read the levels in the areas around your enclosure. This most popular choice of meter with hardcore lighting enthusiasts tends to be the Solarmeter 6.2, though watch this space for a new product on the market making UV checking more available to the masses.
As much as some of this information is new for our crepuscular species, it’s also new to many day time basking owners as well, thinking that our sun-loving Bearded Dragon may want a shady UV free area, but in reality your dragon would spend some time in shade to get some respite. This is still new, and if you think about the mountains of information we have learnt in the last 5 years, just think of what we can continue to discover in the next 5 years. We can only work with the information that we have now – but it’s important to really use that information fully and not overlook it at all, especially for an “easier” method.
“It’s easy to get comfortable with “the way it’s always been done” where animal husbandry is concerned, perhaps because a particular method has been considered the standard for years, if not decades, and may come with just as many years of success breeding and raising a certain species. If people have had such tremendous success with species such as crested geckos or royal pythons without the use of any UV lighting, what would be the point of changing what clearly works? While certainly easier and cheaper to not provide UV lighting if it’s not strictly necessary, there are very few examples in exotic animal husbandry where the easy method also happens to be the best. Take for example the dietary needs of leopard geckos; while these can live many years on a diet of 100% mealworms, which are cheap and convenient for the keeper, new thinking is encouraging the use of a varied diet of well gut-loaded insects instead, which simply makes sense as the naturally superior way to approach nutrition.
Said another way, just because an animal has done well under certain conditions does not mean that there is no room for improvement, improvement which might enable the animal to really thrive. These new techniques may drag us kicking and screaming into more advanced ways of caring for our reptiles and amphibians, but they are necessary if the goal is to recreate their natural environment as closely as possible and ensure that these species truly thrive in captivity. We have to be open to pushing ourselves to try out new and potentially superior techniques the more we learn instead of settling for how things have always been done just because they’re easier.”
Olimpia Martinotti, www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com
Next in the series is UV in depth – what do our reptiles gain from UV? Everyone knows its important for bone strength and structure, in reality it used in a multitude of aspects across the body, so we can look at it in depth and really see why it is so important.
Find out which UVB to choose for your animal and how to use it in this comprehensive guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles.
UVB lighting is something that has advanced more than anyone could have imagined over the last few years. The basic information that reptile keepers had was used well, but it’s now obvious that this is out dated, and though often repeated through to new hobbyists, is more often than not incorrect these days.
There are many aspects of lighting that we have learnt more information about, and can now alter our enclosures to provide a better habitat for our pets. Things such as “red” light being invisible to reptiles, which we now know is not the case, and that in-fact, reptile vision is so superior to our own that this light would be not only very visible, but quite strong to them. If you need a night time heat source, it really must be a non-visual, such as a ceramic, in order to give your reptile the much needed downtime and darkness it needs overnight.
Spectrum of lighting is an important part of a reptile’s world. Many of the bulbs available do not cover anywhere near the visual spectrum that a reptile would be used to in the wild, despite looking bright and fresh to our eyes. And whilst the perfect bulb isn’t something you can always buy, we can put together the best combination of bulbs to give the very best that we can. For more information on this, we would recommend to read pretty much anything by Frances Baines, not only an amazing reptile keeper, but reptile lighting goddess too.
With Frances’ research and teachings in mind, we wanted to look at the debated topic of UVB for nocturnal species, and for snakes, which are often seen as outright not requiring UVB. But why is that? Who decided that snakes didn’t need any extra UVB light, whereas we know exactly how important it is for other species, such as geckos, dragons and tortoises.
If we look at what specific environments snakes live in, they have similar requirements to many other species, as seen in Frances Baines latest publication on Journal of Zoo and Aquarium Research. To understand this, you need to know about a few things first, such as Ferguson Zones. This concept was described by Dr Gary Ferguson, whereby he measured different UV levels and described them in 4 “Zones” –
Zone 1 – Crepsecular or Shade Dweller, thermal conformer – UVI 0 – 0.7 Shaded method
Zone 2 – Partial Sun/Occasional basker, thermoregulator – UVI 0.7 – 1.0 Shaded method
(up to 3 with Sunbeam)
Zone 3 – Open or Partial Sun basker, thermoregulator – UVI 3 – 7.4 Sunbeam method
Zone 4 – Mid-Day Sun basker, thermoregulator – UVI 4.5 – 8 Sunbeam method
These Zones measured all the UVI readings for the reptiles found in them, and each has a UVI Index associated with it. The “Shaded” or “Sunbeam” are methods by which reptiles should have UV provided to them.
The “Shade Method” describes low level UV that is a background light and covers the majority of the enclosure – species such as Crested Geckos, Leopard Geckos and Snakes, the exact animals that we don’t tend to offer UV to, but in the wild would naturally be getting low levels of UVB throughout the day.
The “Sunbeam Method” describes high level UV to species that basking in direct sunlight. This would mimic the direct sunlight that species would get first thing in the morning as they warm up to start their day, and other areas of the habitat should be shaded and have much lower levels, mimicking the natural instinct to move in and out of the sunlight.
Frances Baines has been able to continue with Dr Fergusons work and produce, with the help of many other well respected professionals, and create a full listing of species, describing their ideal Ferguson Zone, basking temperatures and ambient night and day temperatures. This is a comprehensive list of species, and will allow you to ensure that you are creating the correct environment for your particular pet, and is definitely recommend to have a look through.
From this list we can see that species such as Crested Geckos and Leopard Geckos, our common nocturnal species kept without UV, have a Ferguson Zone of 1, which means they would have low levels of UV available to them, and would benefits from background UV levels to replicate their wild environment. We now know that UVB does in fact refract from leaves, so despite a Crested Gecko sitting in trees and foliage, they do in fact get small levels of UVB bouncing around the leaves, and will absorb this and utilise it to its full potential. This would be the equivalent of using an ExoTerra Compact UVB 100 or an Arcadia 7% Compact at a 30cm distance, bulbs which are often considered to be mid-level. This doesn’t take into account if you’re using these bulbs in a canopy on a mesh top screen, which will deplete the UV by a further 30-40%, plus raise the distance of the bulb from the animal. Creating this naturalistic environment will mean the geckos are bigger, stronger and live longer, due to the absorption of vitamin D3. This will improve their lives – so why is it not standard?
More interestingly, if we look at snakes, we can see Corn Snakes, Western Hognose Snakes, Royal Pythons, and Boas have Ferguson Zones of 2, and so should be replicated with background UV levels of around 1.0, which would be similar to using a mid-level UV T8, such as an Arcadia 6% or ExoTerra 5.0 at a distance of around 25-30cm. Yet most snakes are kept without any UV at all.
So why is UVB so important? The short answer is that the skin of a reptile (and human for that matter) absorbs the UVB and the body uses it as vitamin D3. This is in fact a hormone, and is utilised across the body, by the liver, the kidneys, the immune system, and the brain etc. The main use of it that we think of for reptiles is to allow it to control calcium, and therefore affect the structure of the bones, but this is merely one of the uses it has. For more information on Vitamin D3 and its uses within the body, look out for our next post.
In short – we need to learn more. We are constantly finding out new things about our world, and reptile husbandry is no different. The important thing is that we take this knowledge and utilise, something which the reptile industry is sometimes not so hot at doing. With this in mind, Swell Reptiles are proud to provide UVB in all their Crested Gecko and Leopard Gecko Starter Kits, as well as providing the option on all snake kits to purchase UV lighting with them as well.
For more information, please keep an eye out for the rest of our UV Lighting Series, where we can look into the importance of UV and how it’s used throughout the body, and also installing and utilising the Shade or Sunbeam method of lighting.
Learn the importance of UVB lighting for snakes and nocturnal animals inside from the experts at Swell Reptiles.
The UV lighting question is something we get asked here at Swell Reptiles every day as more and more people join the hobby, but the trick to answering the question of how much UV lighting do reptiles need, is found by understanding the different kinds of UV light, and the particular species of reptile you are keeping.
When shopping for UV lighting you can find many top brands, like Exo Terra, Arcadia and Reptile Systems, right here on Swell Reptiles.
UVA and UVB light
UVA light is made up of longwave ultraviolet radiation light given off by the sun. It's part of what lights our day and gives the earth warmth, and this is the same for reptiles. Getting your reptile's daytime lighting correct is essential for generating the right temperatures for them to thermoregulate. Cold blooded, they need warmth from the sun to maintain their bodily functions, and a quick internet search for your species of reptile should yield you the correct temperature range.
While UVA is a little more simple, and other non-light emitting sources like ceramic heat bulbs can help with heat, UVB is the one that causes all the fuss in the reptile keeping world.
UVB light is shortwave ultraviolet radiation, and it is needed by your reptile to generate Vitamin D3 in their bodies. This essential vitamin aids the conversion of calcium in your reptile's diet into strong bone mass, helping them to grow and develop a strong skeleton structure (or shell too, in the case of tortoises and turtles) and to help their joints move better.
Without Vitamin D3, all the calcium added to your reptile's diet, whether naturally occurring or dusted on using calcium dust supplements, is put to no use, leading to serious problems like metabolic bone disease (MBD). This is bad, as it means your reptile's skeleton hasn't developed properly and cannot support their weight, often causing huge amounts of pain when moving and may cause the crushing of internal organs.
Left unchecked, it is fatal.
Sources and quantities of UVB light for reptiles
Now you know the importance of UVB light for your reptile, you can begin ensuring they have a reliable source of it. Each type of reptile requires a different amount of UVB light to function, and this is largely determined by the area of the world they evolved in.
At the top end of the spectrum, desert reptiles require the largest amounts of both UVA and UVB light. This is because most desert areas are close to the equator, where hotter and more intense climates are found. While temperature and day/night cycles vary between species, most desert reptiles will require 10% - 12% UV light, which can be achieved either with a UV fluorescent strip (great for ensuring all the vivarium is lit up with UV), or a compact bulb (more precise areas) or with a mercury vapour bulb (simulates the sun with 12% UVB, plenty of heat, and plenty of natural light).
Rainforest reptiles are the next in line. Rainforests aren't found too far from the equator either, usually around the tropics of Cancer and Capricorn. However, this proximity to the equator is diminished in terms of UVB light due to the dense rainforest canopy, which blocks out most of the light available.
Because of this, rainforest reptiles are best kept with around 5-7% UVB light to help them generate the vitamin D they need for strong bones.
Odd One's Out
The reptile keeping world is a funny one, and although most species commonly kept at home fall into either the desert or rainforest categories, there are always a few that don't.
Most European tortoises are best kept with around 5% UVB, and 2% at the least, so check your species online or consult a reputable book to be sure.
Turtles too need around 5% for dietary vitamin D3 to grow hard shells.
The UV lighting question is something we get asked here at Swell Reptiles every day as more and more people join the hobby
What is reptile brumation?
Brumation is a state of low activity that typically occurs during winter when the days are shorter and temperatures drop. Reptiles rely on external heat to digest food, so during the cold seasons their metabolism slows and they rest to conserve energy.
Even in a heated enclosure, a reptile's internal clock may trigger brumation. Species including skinks, bearded dragons, and some snakes may show brumation behaviour, although the length varies.
Signs your reptile is entering brumation
From late summer onward, check for common signs including:
- Reduced activity and appetite
- Increased time spent hiding or burrowing
- Longer periods of sleep
If you notice these behaviours, it's important to check that your reptile is healthy enough for a long period of rest.
Pre-brumation health check
A visit to an exotic-animal specialist vets is strongly recommended. Request a physical exam and a faecal test to rule out parasites, which can cause serious health hazards when your reptile is inactive.
Additional preparation steps include:
- Encouraging bowel emptying: providing a warm bath or a belly massage helps to clear the digestive tract.
- Record weight: healthy reptiles maintain their weight, even during brumation.
- Optimise nutrition: before brumation, feed a nutrient rich diet or gut loaded insects so your reptile has good reserves.
Check out our range of reptile livefood and supplements to provide optimal nutrition before brumation.
Create a suitable environment
Be sure to check the ideal brumation temperature for your species. Gradually adjust the heat and light to match the natural seasonal cues. Keep a small basking area available in case your reptile wakes to warm up, and always provide fresh water, as reptiles often wake briefly to rehydrate.
Browse our selection of basking bulbs to get ready for colder temperatures.
During and after brumation
Reptiles may rouse slightly several times during brumation but don't worry, this is natural. Try not to disturb them too much during this time. Continue to offer water and monitor their weight where possible.
When they begin to become active again, slowly return heating and lighting to normal and resume regular feeding.
Frequently Asked Questions:
How long does reptile brumation last?
Most reptiles brumate for around 4-12 weeks, but the exact duration may vary by species, age, and environmental conditions.
Do all reptiles brumate?
Some species never brumate in captivity, especially if their habitat remains warm and the daylight hours are consistent.
What temperatures are best for brumation?
It's recommended to aim for the species-specific lower end of their normal temperature range, which is often around 10-18°C. Be sure to research your species exact needs in advance, as some tropical species require a slightly higher minimum temperature.
Try using a reliable thermostat to maintain safe temperatures.
Should I keep the heat lamp on?
A low-watt basking spot is ideal so your reptile can warm up if it wakes, but be sure to reduce overall light to mimic the short winter days.
Do reptiles eat during brumation?
Most reptiles stop eating completely, or eat very little. Always provide fresh water in a suitable water dish as they will wake to drink.
Is my reptile healthy enough to brumate?
Schedule a check-up and parasite screening before the temperatures drop, your vet will be able to check if your reptile is healthy enough to brumate.
What if my reptile skips brumation?
A stable and warm environment can prevent the instinct to brumate, and that's perfectly fine. Continue normal care and monitor your reptile's health.
Can I wake my reptile up early?
Be sure to avoid disturbing your reptile except in the event of an emergency. If you notice signs of illness or rapid weight loss, you may need to intervene. Increase temperatures and light gradually and consult a reptile specialist vet.
Brumation is the natural slowdown period for many reptile species, similar to hibernation in mammals. Knowing how to recognise the signs early and prepare your pet properly helps to keep them healthy throughout the winter months. In this guide, we’ll explain reptile brumation and cover everything you need to know to keep your reptile safe during the cold.
Often simply called an RTI, snakes, in particular, are prone to problems called Respiratory Tract Infections, where they are unable to breathe properly due to a bacterial or fungal infection in their lung or lungs. Of course, this can be painful for your snake, and for obvious reasons, fatal if left unchecked for long enough.
But don't worry, by reading this simple blog, you could be saving your snake's life!
How to spot a potential Respiratory Tract Infection in your snake
As with everything medical, a diagnosis is the first step towards a cure, and being able to spot the symptoms early could just be the thing that saves your snake. Bacterial respiratory infections, in particular, generate a lot of mucus, blocking your snake from absorbing oxygen into their system, and so lookout for the following signs:
In the early stages, your snake might well appear to be restless, moving around a lot more than usual, struggling for air and a way to get comfortable. They will often have a big loss in appetite and may have begun to lose weight. As the infection progresses, you might find they are developing human-like symptoms of respiratory failure breathing through an open mouth, wheezing, and their body might be swollen in places due to the infection. Finally, an obvious sign is the mucus itself, which may be around the mouth and may have caused the fork in their tongue to clog up and close together.
If you notice these symptoms, you know what to do: Get to a specialist exotic vets as soon as possible.
What your reptile should likely receive is systemic antibiotic therapy to kill the bacteria that is causing the problem (or a different medicine if it turns out to be a fungal cause). They are likely to need a specific diet to get them back to full strength again during recover.
Prevention of RTIs in snakes
Fortunately, a lot of the causes of RTIs in snakes can be avoided by getting your reptile husbandry correct from the beginning. Like most animals, if they are not kept in the right environment, it can cause stress which is practically guaranteed to lower your snake's immune system, making them dangerously susceptible to bacterial and fungal infections that would otherwise be fought off with ease!
Firstly, most snakes require hotter temperatures than the UK's climate is willing to consistently provide, it gets pretty cold here, so make sure you have adequate reptile heating equipment in your snake's habitat to make it warm enough for your pet to thermoregulate, and check it with a purpose built thermometer.
But of course, at night temperatures drop too, and creating a natural day/night temperature and light cycle can help your reptile feel more at home too, causing less stress and allowing the maintenance of a good immune system. You can achieve this by either manually changing your temperature settings each morning and evening, or automating your system with a Night/Day thermostat.
Use a hydrometer to ensure you have the right humidity for your snake too. Too wet, and the surplice moisture in the air can make matters even worse.
Lastly, like any animal, cleanliness and hygiene is important. Ensure that your clean your snake's habitat regularly with a purpose-built disinfectant, and spot clean your substrate regularly between changes to avoid bacteria forming on your snake's waste.
If you still want to know more about your snake's species-specific husbandry, use your veterinary appointment as a chance to pick your vet's brains on the matter, and consider an informative book on the subject to get things just right, leaving you with a happy, healthy snake.
You can also learn more about snake care in our blog, try our Royal python care sheet or Western hognose snake care sheet to get started.
While you're thinking about your snake, why not stock up on frozen food?
Respiratory infections are a common ailment for captive reptiles, learn inside how to recognise the signs and treat them safely.
Different reptiles have different habits when it comes to shedding, but it will be at least once a year and is a very important step for your pet's health. As they shed all of their skin at one time, it can be itchy and very irritating so it is important to check they are not having difficulty. If they are, there are a few ways you can help them out to make it an easier process for them!
Sheds can vary between different species (snakes, lizards, turtles, etc.) so make sure you check the specific requirements for your reptile. If you're unsure, check out our advice sheets, like our Bearded Dragon care guide, Royal python care guide and Leopard Gecko care guide.
Provide them with a rough surface
As the shed can get itchy, it is best to put a rough surface in their housing so they can satisfy the itch and also remove and old skin which isn't coming off on its own. There are many things you can choose, some of which you probably have already. Things like rocks, branches, vines and any rough surfaced decoration would be perfect and can be picked up at a relatively low cost.
Keep the humidity up
Obviously, humidity is a very important part of any reptile housing but it is a particular priority during a shed. The main cause of problems with shedding is lack of humidity. Every reptile has requirements when it comes to humidity levels in their tank, usually with a range of values. In this time, it is best to keep the levels towards the higher end which will usually increase further during a shed so make sure you know what is best for your reptile. Read our Humidity Guide for a bit more information.
If you find it difficult to keep the humidity levels high it is probably worth creating a humid hide using a plastic container or a hide you have already and some sphagnum moss. The sphagnum moss creates extra moisture which provides the humidity you need.
Give them a Bath
If your reptile is having a particularly bad time, you can resort to giving them a bath. This can loosen up their old skin so it will come off easier. Make sure the water is tepid or mildly warm and if it is too warm it will be bad for their health and also keep the water levels very low to avoid drowning. After the bath, make sure you dry them properly with a towel and also place them underneath the heat lamp.
If you would rather not put them in a bath, you can use a spray bottle and spray warm water on their bodies where the old skin is. This will have the same effect as a bath.
Take Extra Care
You need to make sure your reptile is receiving the care and nutrients they require, especially when they are shedding. If they do not receive the nutrients they need, they will have a more difficult time. Make sure they have access to clean water, the right kind of food and multivitamins and change any old food or water which has been left in the tank.
Help them out
If there is excess skin in difficult places on your reptile, such as eyes or feet, it is ok to help them out and pull it off. If it has shed properly it will pull away with ease. If there is any resistance, leave the skin alone and let it come away naturally.
Things you shouldn't do
- It is not necessary to purchase any moisturising sprays from a pet store. You can achieve the same effect by using a spray bottle with warm water.
- Do not handle snakes pre-shed. They may be unable to see and will bite if startled.
- If you notice any bodily fluids (pus, blood, etc…) on your reptile, contact a vet immediately.
Shedding is an extremely important part of a reptile’s life cycle, but can also be dangerous. Learn how to make sure your reptile sheds properly, every time!
We know you love your snakes, and we sure do too, and great snake care is therefore in all our best interests. But sadly, they are as prone to disease and illness as us humans are, and when it comes to Inclusion Body Disease, or IBD as it is often called, there is no known treatment meaning a diagnosis doesn't not come with a good prognosis.
But as with everything in the reptile keeping world, knowledge is power, and the more you know about IBD the more you can do to prevent it and keep your snakes healthy and well.
What are the symptoms of Inclusion Body Disease?
Part of the problem with IBD is that in many snakes it presents as asymptomatic, meaning that there are no noticeable symptoms, especially near the beginning of the infection, but in most cases there are some noticeable markers of the disease you should look out for.
Firstly, you should only really be looking for symptoms in the family of snakes referred to as BOIDS. This is the family including pythons and boa constrictors. Although the disease has not been completely ruled out in other types of snakes, there are no fully documented cases in other families.
The presentable symptoms then differ slightly between boas and pythons:
Symptoms in Boas
Because of the nature of the disease which attacks the central nervous system, most symptoms are related to movement and behavior. It causes damage to the myelin sheath that protects the nerves that control movement, eventually attacking the nerves themselves.
Primarily, this comes in the form of a flaccid (floppy) paralysis, meaning your snake cannot move like it used to, is unable to strike or constrict and cannot turn itself over if placed on it's back. Because the snake is losing control of it's muscles, it is likely that it cannot feed properly and may regurgitate some or all of it's meals, leading to weight loss. Shedding is inefficient too as your snake cannot move to rub off dead skin and you might notice an increased susceptibility to RTIs.
Symptoms in Pythons
Pythons experience similar issues when infected, but do not suffer from regurgitation problems and are more likely to develop mouth rot and become agitated before paralysis possibly due to problems with their sight as the illness progresses. Generally, infections in pythons progress quicker than in boas.
Prognosis for IBD
Unlike a host of other snake problems, the saddest fact about this disease is that there is no treatment or cure, making each diagnosis a fatal one. If you have a snake with this disease, we are truly sorry, but if your diagnosis is confirmed by your exotic vet, the kindest thing to do for your snake is to have it put down so their suffering is not prolonged.
The good news is that prevention is the best way forward.
Prevention
This infection is caused by a retrovirus, and so preventing the spread of virus is the preventing the disease itself â" protecting your snake collection.
Use a high quality disinfectant hand wash for reptiles both before and after handling each snake to prevent cross contamination, and ensure you use a similarly effective vivarium or terrarium cleaner to ensure a virus free habitat for your snake.
New snakes from the boid family should always be quarantined before introducing them into the same or adjacent habitats to your existing snakes. Most experts recommend around 3 to 6 months by themselves before allowing them to come into breeding or habitable contact with the rest of your collection.
Although not completely confirmed, there does appear to be a link between IBD and mites in boid type snakes, so be on the lookout for signs of infestation, and be prepared to use a mite treatment immediately if you spot symptoms.
We know you love your snakes, and we sure do too, but IBD is a dangerous ailment. Read inside to find out the symptoms and prognosis of IBD.
Metabolic bone disease in reptiles (often simply called MBD) can be awful for your pet and make life very difficult for you too. Reptiles who suffer from serious cases can experience a lot of pain, a loss of mobility and may even need to be put down “ not what true reptile keeping is about, where the health and happiness of your reptile must ALWAYS come first.
MBD itself is not actually one disease, but a broad term for several problems to do with your reptile's bones and joints. It is the reptile form of human problems like osteoporosis and brittle bone syndrome and has some specific causes.
As with any reptile health problem, knowledge is power, allowing you to take easy preventative steps to ensure your reptile doesn't suffer.
What causes Metabolic Bone Disease In Reptiles?
MBD is caused by biological deficiencies in your reptile's diet and from the environment. Primarily, it comes down to two things: Calcium and Vitamin D3.
Calcium and Reptiles
Like with us humans, a big part of your reptile's bone structure is made up of calcium (Ca), which is otherwise naturally occurring in their diet. However, in captivity, you need to ensure that they are getting a boost of it. Reptile calcium supplements are an easy and affordable way to ensure they are getting the amount they need to develop strong bones and joints, and can either be dusted onto your reptiles livefood, fruit of veg, or added in liquid form to their drinking water.
Vitamin D3 for Reptiles
It's one thing to give them plenty of calcium, but without the presence of Vitamin D3 in their bodies, the calcium cannot be used right, and will go to waste.
There are two sure-fire ways to get Vitamin D3 into your reptile's system. The most popular is with a Ultra Violet lighting system. UV light from the sun is absorbed by your reptile in the wild, and you can replicate this effect in your vivarium or terrarium with the correct system. Doing so allows your reptile to generate D3 to absorb and utilise the calcium in their diet.
Giving your reptile the right amount of D3 is important too, and as a rough guide, the following is the best way to do it, using either compact bulbs or strip lights:
Desert reptiles, such as bearded dragons require the highest amount of UV light to generate enough UV light â“ ensure your bulb gives off about 10 to 12% UV light.
Rainforest Reptiles like crested geckos and chameleons need less UV. Having evolved in dense jungles, the light they receive is partially blocked out by the rainforest canopy, and so they need lighting systems featuring around 5-6% UV.
Other reptiles such as European tortoise and snakes from temperature climates don't need so much, but some is better than none, and there are UV lamps that emit around 2% UV just to give them enough.
DON'T FORGET: UV lamps lose their UV output after about 6 months, meaning that while the light is on, your reptile might not be getting enough, and so you need to buy a replacement straight away!
The other option, or even to be used as a supplement to your UV lighting, is to give your reptile their Vitamin D3 orally as part of their diet. This can be done with a range of reptile supplements, some of which feature both calcium and D3 within the same product!
How can I tell if my reptile has MBD?
If your reptile is suffering from a calcium deficiency, you may find their movements are laboured and they do not like being picked up as this moves their joints in ways they do not like. With tortoises, terrapins and turtles, their shell will be unnaturally soft and spongey instead of hard and healthy. If you notice any of these symptoms, it is best to get them checked out by the vets straight away and review your UV lighting system and reptile diet.
MBD is one of the most common and feared ailments in the reptile keeping hobby, read here to learn how to prevent it and protect the health of your beloved pet.