So, to set the scene for those that missed it. A new trait has been discovered in Ball Python genetics in Iowa, US. A designer Python breeder, JD Constriction.com, hatched out a baby Royal python that had something extra to it, something they were yet to identify.
They posted a picture of their newest discovery, “The Pastel Axanthic “Thing””, which went viral – how do you think we heard about it? In fact, we shared the picture at the time too. It became affectionately known as The Stormtrooper.
Little was known at the time about what caused this stunning snake to look like it did. As the breeder, JD Constriction, specialised in black and white morphs, he knew he was looking at something different. He knew that something special had occurred here. A more obvious Pastel Axanthic didn’t have the striking white this snake carried, and contained more grey, which this Stormtrooper didn’t have.
JD’s best guess was that it was either a fluke, a one off that wouldn’t be replicated, or a new gene that he had yet to identify, perhaps something recessive which caused the high contrast black and white colouration in the snake. The snake itself hatched looking like a normal Pastel Axanthic, but over each shed she became more high contrast, with cleaner white colouring, especially its brilliant white head.
If that’s not impressive enough, showing off the brilliant work that independent breeders are doing out there, the real shock came months later, when the first update was realised of our Stormtrooper. She’d gone to the Dark Side.
The same snake appeared to have gained melanin (gotten darker) throughout its life, resulting in that stark black and white snake becoming barely recognisable. The snake still has its bright white sides, but all the perfect contrast patterns on the top have now bled through to create a dirty charcoal colour all over the top of the snake. Its striking white head is now almost completely black and grey. Although she is still very distinctive, this darkness appears to be blackening the top of the snake, whilst not touching the sides at all.
So this new gene, what is it?
JD is now calling it “Darkness”, or “Dirty”, as the snake literally darken through its life, completely altering the look of the animal. He had found this already with another snake, but hadn’t realised the same gene had made its way into his Stormtrooper. It seems to affect snakes that carry the Pastel and Axanthic genes, when these genes are combined together.
So this breeder, specialising in black and white, now has a snake that can go from white, to black? Very very cool, JD Constriction!
While you're thinking about Ball pythons, why not take a look and see if we have any available in our store? Or even browse through our Royal python starter kits?
A new trait has been discovered in Ball Python genetics in Iowa, US. A truly stunning variation of the Axanthic morph.
For anybody with a vague understanding of just what a reticulated python is, should know that undertaking the care of a reticulated python in captivity is no easy task. However, with the right knowledge, equipment and outlook you can make a home for one with you.
Reticulated Python biology
Often affectionately called retics by their owners, these large snakes evolved in the jungles and scrublands of South East Asia.
When we say large snake, we actually mean the biggest in the world, or at least in terms of length with snakes reaching sizes of around 6m (an occasionally a little more!), and around 75kg in weight at the uppermost limit.
Powerful, it is important to remember that a fully grown reticulated python is technically capable of causing injury or death to a human, however attacks in the wild are rare, and attacks in captivity even rarer providing the snake is well accustomed to handling, kept securely and well fed.
Reticulated python equipment
It will come as no surprise that you may have to upgrade the size of your vivarium as your retic grows in size, as well as ensuring that the glass fronts are made of the toughest glass, with locks to ensure no escapes or unauthorised access to the snake in your absence.
Retics, like all snakes start pretty small as hatchlings, so any small to medium terrestrial or arboreal vivarium should be fine providing you can fit in the required heating equipment to reach those nice sub-tropical temperatures.
But as they get older and bigger, you will have to upgrade to the largest vivariums you can, and consider the possibility of a custom-made vivarium to provide adequate housing, just make sure you invest in some strong glass!
Heating and Lighting
Most keepers agree that a retic will best enjoy an environment that features a temperature gradient around the 29 Degrees Celsius mark, allowing them to move to either the hot or the cool side to thermos-regulate depending on how they are feeling.
While this temperature can be achieved with heat-mats, we like to keep at least the hot end of our enclosures warm with a spot lamp connected to a reliable thermostat to keep it within range. Don't forget to use a bulb guard though as your retic might get too close otherwise!
Substrate
Drier substrates like aspen often do best, and some people even use non-printed paper although we can't say this makes for a great looking enclosure. Retics substrate will need changing relatively often when they pass waste, which as an adult can be in some pretty big proportions.
Food and feeding
As with most snakes, we recommend you feed your reticulated python outside of it's normal enclosure to help disassociate your incoming hand with being fed, helping your snake to know the difference between handling and feeding and help you avoid getting "tagged", which is a bit worse than usual with a retic!
As a general rule, its best to feed your reticulated python a frozen rat, or later rabbit that is of comparable girth to their size, and repeat this every 7 to 10 days on average.
Most owners even go as far as to grab a second freezer unit for their house, as frozen rats and rabbits work out cheaper when bought in bulk and stored up.
Reticulated python, Malayopython reticulatus, husbandry guide from the experts at Swell Reptiles, covering housing, heating, lighting and more.
A royal python, or Ball python as our US cousins tend to call them, is a medium sized species of snake that originally evolved in the climates of sub-Saharan Africa. A small snake by python standards, the Royal python is non-venomous and is often called the Ball Python due to it's tendency to wrap itself up into a coil like shape, especially when picked up.
Royal pythons smart off small like all snakes, but rarely exceed 200cm in length, with the females tending to squeeze in those extra few inches to become the bigger of the two. This generally non-threatening size and usually calm temperament means that handled properly from hatchlings, they rarely lash out, making them easy and docile pets for captivity in the UK.
Like almost all snakes, royal's will shed their skin periodically, and some may need a little more help than others. Increasing the humidity a little or providing a slightly more abrasive or moist substrate in their hide might help. Handling should be done often in small doses to ensure a docile nature into adulthood.
Royal Python Habitats
Royal pythons when reaching adulthood preffer long terrestrial vivariums such as a VivExotic Viva+ Terrestrial Vivarium Large Oak. Not generally big on climbing, royals tend to prefer underground burrows, often dug by mammals in the wild. In your vivarium, which we recommend to be as large as possible for grown adults, you can simply use a large reptile hide such as Exo Terra caves, allowing you easy access to them should they be trying to hide from you.
Wooden vivariums are considered superior over glass or plastics for royals, due to the isolative properties of the wood, keeping things warm to sub-Saharan temperatures.
Common royal python substrates used in captivity are bark hide, beech chips and soft aspen, all non-reactive with your pythons underbelly and keeping things more or less arid to avoid scale rot.
Royal Python Heating and Lighting
Royal pythons are known to enjoy basking in the sun from time to time. Being cold blooded as all snaked are, they rely on heat from their environment to raise their body temperature to thermo regulate. Without this heat from the environment, they cannot circulate blood properly, or digest their food, often causing food regurgitation, weight loss and health problems.
We recommend using a basking heat lamp, creating a hot spot at one end of the vivarium to achieve a temperature of around 33 degrees centigrade, leaving your cooler end of the vivarium at around a pleasant 24 degrees centigrade, allowing your snake the option to move between the hot and cold areas at will depending on their core body temperature.
Some keepers use a heat mat too, however to provide a little extra warmth. Just ensure that your snake does not come into direct contact with the mat, and due to your Royal's habit or burrowing into substrate, we recommend the use of a matt stat, and the placement of the mat on the side or below the vivarium itself, on a heat-proof surface to reduce the risk of burning.
Ceramic heaters are also of great use to your Royal, helping to provide night time heat when your light emitting bulbs are off, or just to raise the general ambient air temperature during the day in the spots not under your basking lamp.
It's always best to monitor your royal python habitat using two thermometers, one at the cooler side, and one under your basking spot, both positioned at the height your snake will be living at to ensure the right temperatures. We also recommend a reliable thermostat system if your budget will stretch to it.
Royal Python humidity
For Royals, this is an easy one. Generally, most homes will have around a 50 to 60% humidity range already, perfect for your python. Just install an analogue hygrometer into your vivarium to make sure it doesn't exceed parameters (risking scale rot and breathing problems) or too low (risking a bad shed due to a lack of moisture).
Royal Python Scenery
These snakes aren't too fond of deserts, but enjoy relatively arid scrubland or warm forests, and therefore you should try to emulate this in your vivarium. Some fallen tree branches (either natural or artificial), African plants (none poisonous) and a rock or wood based hide to retreat to or bask on will have your snake feeling at home.
Intelligent animals, try to shake up your decor during cleaning time, making them feel they have something a little different to explore.
Royal python diets
Providing you are ok with frozen live food hanging around in your freezer, royal diets are pretty easy to cater for. Being completely carnivorous from hatching, young royals enjoy small "fuzzies" mice every 5 or 6 days, slowly progressing to larger mice and eventually weaner rats. Learning to judge what they can accept is a talent you will soon learn, but generally speaking if they can fit their jaws around it, they will keep it down.
As with all snakes, we recommend feeding them outside of their vivarium to dissociate handling time with feeding time. Feeding them inside the vivarium may cause them to become confused, striking at your hand as they believe they are being fed which is not so much of a problem when they are hatchlings, but a fully grown snake might do some damage.
Royals are notorious for not taking food, and usually this is down to husbandry if your snake is not eating, ensure their temperature and habitat is within parameters. Sometimes, cutting at the mouse's head to expose their brain triggers their hunting instincts too, if you can handle a little mess.
The Last Word
Each year we get thousands of calls at Swell Reptiles about Royal Pythons, and we are happy to take every single one. They're a big favourite of ours, with many of our staff members having fond memories of their first Royal, and we're left with no doubts that given the right care a research, you'll be able to use this blog to start some memories of your own.
A complete care guide on Royal pythons, Python regius, covering natural history, habitat, heating, lighting and more.
Being the predominantly social creatures that we humans are, when taking care of our pets we sometimes assume that they want some company, usually in the form of a member of the same species.
This seems only natural to us, but depending on the species of reptile you are keeping, it could be incredibly unnatural for your herp!
For this reason, its important to note which reptiles are likely to enjoy spending time together, and which ones are much better when housed separately.
Community reptiles
Providing you have a large enough terrarium, reptiles like crested geckos are fine housed together. These guys don't tend to get too large in size, and so should be fine providing the other aspects of husbandry are catered for, including heat, light, humid conditions and plenty of places to climb and hide.
The same goes for smaller rainforest lizards such as green anoles, which can even be housed together with crested geckos generally without incident, giving you a greater variety in your reptile home.
Younger and juvenile reptiles can also be successfully kept together, such as hatchling bearded dragons, but they should be separated as soon as possible and placed into separate vivariums.
Solitary reptiles
For safety reasons, we have to put most reptiles in this category. Unlike mammals which are live born and suckled by the mother, most reptile species are left and then hatched alone, left to fend for themselves at an early age, and are therefore left in direct competition with their siblings from the same egg clutch.
This has arguably meant that reptiles that are more aggressive to others (especially those of the same sex and therefore not a potential mate) have been more likely to survive in past wild-living generations, meaning that the instinct for territory and aggression to those of their own species is bred into them.
This is particularly evident in bearded dragons, where males will fight and claw each other when kept in close proximity, especially when they have reached adolescence and are ready to challenge others for the right to mate.
Thus, it is best that most species are kept thoroughly separate (although many can be taken out of their habitats for 'play time' under your watchful eye.
Breeding
While the majority of aggressive incidents will be same-sex incidents of violence due to the competition for territory and mating, there are incidents between members of the opposite sex too. Mating for reptiles can sometimes get a little punchy, and so we recommend you speak to an experienced breeder or your local veterinarian before you go ahead with any planned breeding programme.
The conditions for breeding for each reptile are different, depending on the age of the reptile, their species, the temperature and humidity they need to be kept at, and even their diet.
But sooner or later, you are going to have to put the supposed breeding pair in proximity to one another. Do your research, and be vigilant and things should go according to plan!
Look inside to find out why reptiles should, or should not be kept with other individuals, and the dangers of cohabitation when done incorrectly.
Often simply called an RTI, snakes, in particular, are prone to problems called Respiratory Tract Infections, where they are unable to breathe properly due to a bacterial or fungal infection in their lung or lungs. Of course, this can be painful for your snake, and for obvious reasons, fatal if left unchecked for long enough.
But don't worry, by reading this simple blog, you could be saving your snake's life!
How to spot a potential Respiratory Tract Infection in your snake
As with everything medical, a diagnosis is the first step towards a cure, and being able to spot the symptoms early could just be the thing that saves your snake. Bacterial respiratory infections, in particular, generate a lot of mucus, blocking your snake from absorbing oxygen into their system, and so lookout for the following signs:
In the early stages, your snake might well appear to be restless, moving around a lot more than usual, struggling for air and a way to get comfortable. They will often have a big loss in appetite and may have begun to lose weight. As the infection progresses, you might find they are developing human-like symptoms of respiratory failure breathing through an open mouth, wheezing, and their body might be swollen in places due to the infection. Finally, an obvious sign is the mucus itself, which may be around the mouth and may have caused the fork in their tongue to clog up and close together.
If you notice these symptoms, you know what to do: Get to a specialist exotic vets as soon as possible.
What your reptile should likely receive is systemic antibiotic therapy to kill the bacteria that is causing the problem (or a different medicine if it turns out to be a fungal cause). They are likely to need a specific diet to get them back to full strength again during recover.
Prevention of RTIs in snakes
Fortunately, a lot of the causes of RTIs in snakes can be avoided by getting your reptile husbandry correct from the beginning. Like most animals, if they are not kept in the right environment, it can cause stress which is practically guaranteed to lower your snake's immune system, making them dangerously susceptible to bacterial and fungal infections that would otherwise be fought off with ease!
Firstly, most snakes require hotter temperatures than the UK's climate is willing to consistently provide, it gets pretty cold here, so make sure you have adequate reptile heating equipment in your snake's habitat to make it warm enough for your pet to thermoregulate, and check it with a purpose built thermometer.
But of course, at night temperatures drop too, and creating a natural day/night temperature and light cycle can help your reptile feel more at home too, causing less stress and allowing the maintenance of a good immune system. You can achieve this by either manually changing your temperature settings each morning and evening, or automating your system with a Night/Day thermostat.
Use a hydrometer to ensure you have the right humidity for your snake too. Too wet, and the surplice moisture in the air can make matters even worse.
Lastly, like any animal, cleanliness and hygiene is important. Ensure that your clean your snake's habitat regularly with a purpose-built disinfectant, and spot clean your substrate regularly between changes to avoid bacteria forming on your snake's waste.
If you still want to know more about your snake's species-specific husbandry, use your veterinary appointment as a chance to pick your vet's brains on the matter, and consider an informative book on the subject to get things just right, leaving you with a happy, healthy snake.
You can also learn more about snake care in our blog, try our Royal python care sheet or Western hognose snake care sheet to get started.
While you're thinking about your snake, why not stock up on frozen food?
Respiratory infections are a common ailment for captive reptiles, learn inside how to recognise the signs and treat them safely.
Different reptiles have different habits when it comes to shedding, but it will be at least once a year and is a very important step for your pet's health. As they shed all of their skin at one time, it can be itchy and very irritating so it is important to check they are not having difficulty. If they are, there are a few ways you can help them out to make it an easier process for them!
Sheds can vary between different species (snakes, lizards, turtles, etc.) so make sure you check the specific requirements for your reptile. If you're unsure, check out our advice sheets, like our Bearded Dragon care guide, Royal python care guide and Leopard Gecko care guide.
Provide them with a rough surface
As the shed can get itchy, it is best to put a rough surface in their housing so they can satisfy the itch and also remove and old skin which isn't coming off on its own. There are many things you can choose, some of which you probably have already. Things like rocks, branches, vines and any rough surfaced decoration would be perfect and can be picked up at a relatively low cost.
Keep the humidity up
Obviously, humidity is a very important part of any reptile housing but it is a particular priority during a shed. The main cause of problems with shedding is lack of humidity. Every reptile has requirements when it comes to humidity levels in their tank, usually with a range of values. In this time, it is best to keep the levels towards the higher end which will usually increase further during a shed so make sure you know what is best for your reptile. Read our Humidity Guide for a bit more information.
If you find it difficult to keep the humidity levels high it is probably worth creating a humid hide using a plastic container or a hide you have already and some sphagnum moss. The sphagnum moss creates extra moisture which provides the humidity you need.
Give them a Bath
If your reptile is having a particularly bad time, you can resort to giving them a bath. This can loosen up their old skin so it will come off easier. Make sure the water is tepid or mildly warm and if it is too warm it will be bad for their health and also keep the water levels very low to avoid drowning. After the bath, make sure you dry them properly with a towel and also place them underneath the heat lamp.
If you would rather not put them in a bath, you can use a spray bottle and spray warm water on their bodies where the old skin is. This will have the same effect as a bath.
Take Extra Care
You need to make sure your reptile is receiving the care and nutrients they require, especially when they are shedding. If they do not receive the nutrients they need, they will have a more difficult time. Make sure they have access to clean water, the right kind of food and multivitamins and change any old food or water which has been left in the tank.
Help them out
If there is excess skin in difficult places on your reptile, such as eyes or feet, it is ok to help them out and pull it off. If it has shed properly it will pull away with ease. If there is any resistance, leave the skin alone and let it come away naturally.
Things you shouldn't do
- It is not necessary to purchase any moisturising sprays from a pet store. You can achieve the same effect by using a spray bottle with warm water.
- Do not handle snakes pre-shed. They may be unable to see and will bite if startled.
- If you notice any bodily fluids (pus, blood, etc…) on your reptile, contact a vet immediately.
Shedding is an extremely important part of a reptile’s life cycle, but can also be dangerous. Learn how to make sure your reptile sheds properly, every time!
A sensitive subject, this question which was put to you guys on our Facebook page and received some really intelligent and commendable answers, so let's take a look at what you guys thought about this ethical dilemma:
The Argument For Wild Caught Reptiles
As Sophie Malko Smith points out, "it depends on the reason", for instance "Crested Geckos were thought to be extinct, and wild caught specimens have helped to bring the species back in a huge way". There does seem to be evidence to support Sophie's argument: Crested Geckos were indeed thought to be extinct due to the introduction of the Little Fire Ant into its' New Caledonian habitat, until Cresties were rediscovered in 1994 after a tropical storm, and since then breeding programs using wild caught geckos have had some success at bringing numbers back up.
Helen MacCaffrey further illustrated the point: "Wild caught stock can be essential for conservation and introducing new bloodlines to certain species".
However, the export of wild geckos, such as Leopard geckos, into the pet trade is now prohibited to protect the growing population for a second near-extinction event, so wild caught crested geckos are no longer a legal option as the tables have now reversed: catching wild geckos will now simply bring down the wild population too dangerously, but we see Sophie's point about their initial capture being vital to the survival of the Crested Gecko as a species.
As Sophie said herself, "for hobby/pets, captive bred all the way".
The Argument for Captive Bred Reptiles
The arguments for Captive Bred are very strong and the vast majority of those of you who answered were 100% behind the captive breeding of reptiles in the pet trade.
The main crux of the argument for captive bred reptiles lies in the arguments against Wild Caught. Tanya Vennet looked at it from a health and wellbeing standpoint: wild caught reptiles "have had the taste of freedom, to catch and cage is very stressful for the animals". There were plenty of comments in support of this, stating that wild caught animals are more aggressive - a direct reaction to the stress of being caught and caged.
Alasdair Robbins came down quite heavily on the side of Captive Bred too, making the point that capturing wild reptiles "really affects wild stocks" and can therefore lead to the possible extinction of a species, not to mention affect the surrounding ecosystem. He also pointed out that wild caught reptiles "the risk of infecting other captive specimens with outside pathogens", which is also true - not all wild caught reptiles go through a rigorous quarantine procedure, and illnesses can be transmitted to your other reptiles.
Most of your comments seem to suggest that Captive Bred reptiles are by far the best way to go, holding the moral and ethical high-ground, but as Alasdair also pointed out, this isn't the end of the story: "captive breeding leads to mass production and therefore turns the animal into a product which is wrong and also breeding on a mass scale can lead to birth defects".
As this point illustrates, although Captive Breeding seems the way to go in most respects regarding the isolation of pathogens, the conservation of wild stock levels, as well as the mental and physical health of the wild animal, Captive Breeding is often not perfect either, with reptile farms springing up all over the world that use potentially less than ethical breeding and housing techniques in order to generate profit.
Perhaps the best way to do things lies back with what Tanya said: she prefers to use "breeding programmes and reputable breeders" to obtain the reptiles she takes care of.
As some of you pointed out, all reptiles were wild once (or at least their ancestors were), and because they are now somewhat domesticated, we as humans have a duty of care over their welfare that we need to take seriously.
As always, your answers were intelligent and thought provoking and it got us thinking - maybe humanity needs to look at the individual situation of each species to decide what the ethical choice is?
What do you think?
Wild caught or captive bred? This is a controversial topic in the exotic pet hobby, read our help guide to find out the pros and cons for both.
If you love snakes and are thinking about bringing the next generation of your favourite slithery reptiles into this world then that can be great, but there's still plenty to think about before you get going:
Room & Board
Expanding your snake's family can be rewarding, but before you go ahead and introduce your snakes to each other for breeding, you need to do a little maths and ask yourself a few important questions:
Do you have enough room for your new little ones? Take a look at what snakes you are breeding, and work out how many babies you are likely to yield from a successful clutch of eggs, then work out how many new vivariums or RUBs you might need and where they can go in your home. How much is it going to cost you to home your new critters? You don't want to be stuck with a bunch of babies you don't have the space for or can't afford to keep. A little 'family planning' at this point goes a long way to a successful breeding programme.
Planning ahead
Once your snake has laid eggs, you're going to need to incubate them to have a really successful breeding session. Incubators are easy to come by and basically work as reverse fridges! They keep the eggs at the right temperature for the babies to develop and retain humidity too. Make sure you have got an incubator that's big enough to handle the clutch you are expecting. Once again, research into the breed of snake is vital.
Breeding Your Snakes
This can be the tricky bit, and you must always take the welfare of your existing snakes into consideration. For snakes, it isn't always as simple as playing some slow Soul Music with a sexy bass-singer and lighting a few candles…
The step-by-step guide below is very general, and you need to do further research into the mating habits and behaviours of the particular snakes you are looking at breeding before you attempt it, but here's a basic overview of the common process:
- Ensure they are at the optimum breeding weight for their particular species. They need to have plenty of strong muscle and stored energy. Once again, research at this point is crucial.
- For many species of snake, their sex drive is activated by seasonal change. You can replicate this by dropping the temperature in your viv by just a few degrees for 2-3 months, then gradually turning it back to normal again. Be careful not to drop it too low as to harm the snake, just a few degrees should help. This makes your snake think that the time is right for love…
- Once this has occurred and a shed cycle has been completed, you can think about introducing the snakes. It doesn't seem to matter whether you introduce them in the male or the female's viv, but WATCH FOR AGGRESSION. The last thing that you want between two snakes is a lover's tiff that ends up hurting one or both of your prospective parents.
- If it gets a little too hot in there and aggression is not curbed, its' best to abandon the breeding, at least for the moment. It could be that your snakes just aren't ready…
- If your snakes haven't already been overcome by love and 'locked' into each other, try misting the viv to simulate rain… How romantic…
- If they have locked, great! Leave them to it for a while (nobody likes a peeping-tom) and then separate them as normal. Try this a few times to make sure the male has really done all he can.
- If you notice that the female is losing interest in the male, great! Chances are this means that she is developing eggs.
- Eggs are often delicate depending on the breed. Read up on the best hideaway for your particular breed of snake to lay their eggs in and go from there. Usually they will need to be filled with substrate, but double check as this is species specific.
- Once the female has done her bit it is time to remove the eggs and place them in an incubator. Make sure they are 'Sunny side up' and maintain a good environment taking into account heat and humidity levels that are specific to the breed.
- Finally, the mother's job is done, so return her to a sanitized vivarium so she can begin feeding again.
- Read up on egg care and how long it is going to take for them to hatch, and good luck!
Breeding can be difficult, and unless you have the right help then we recommend you wait until you have plenty of snake experience. If you really want to expand your snake family but don't have the know-how or the time, perhaps consider adopting a snake instead from a forum or from a rescue shelter. Just take a look around in your local area!
But if you decide to go ahead then that's great and we wish you luck. Just remember, this guide is a short one and there's lots more information to consider that is specific to the breed of snake you are reproducing - research is key to breeding snakes responsibly!
You can learn more about snake care in our blog, try our Royal python care sheet to get started.
If you love snakes and are thinking about bringing the next generation of your favourite reptiles into this world then that can be great.
Fortunately, most snakes - when handled correctly and from a young age - are pretty docile and at their worst tend to be indifferent to your touch and presence rather than aggressive.
However, especially with rescued snakes that didn't have the love and care when they were younger, some can be unruly and a little dangerous. Even though you as their new owner are more than happy to give them love and attention, they could misbehave, striking or constricting when they feel threatened or perhaps mistaking you for food.
We don't really recommend taking on an aggressive snake if you are a relatively inexperienced handler, but here are some tips for handling those more aggressive snakes that can really help look after the well-being of both you and your snake.
Feeding
One of the biggest problems that faces the snake keeping world is that of snakes that have been fed in their own environment. By putting food straight into their rub or vivarium, the snake will most likely associate the opening of their habitat and your approaching hand with food. This means that when you go to handle your snake, it is more likely to strike at your hand, mistaking it for their next meal. Even non-venomous snake bites can be painful and pretty destructive, so it goes without saying that this is to be avoided.
Instead, try to feed your snake outside of it's normal habitat, in something like a large plastic box. This way, the association between your hand and their food is lessened, decreasing the likelihood of your snake "biting the hand that feeds".
Getting your snake from it's home.
At this point, preparation is key: Make sure you have a suitable space, free from clutter to handle your snake in. It should be free from stimuli that might intimidate, aggravate or activate their hunting instincts. That means no food, no potential threats and no animal smells. Best practice is to sanitise your hands too as they might have food smells on them.
Next, you need to put on your protective clothing. Handling gloves are cheap, affordable and readily available and can greatly lessen the pain and damage of a snake strike. If you have a constrictor, you can more easily slip out of it's grip, leaving the glove behind should you need to.
Next comes the snake hook - an essential piece of snake handling kit used for years by exotic and aggressive snake handlers and those that tackle them in the wild. They come in many different sizes for you to pick the one that is capable of handling your snake.
One you have opened the door of your snake's home, you need to let your snake know that you are there so you don't startle it. Make a little soft noise - say hello! Use the snake hook to gently touch the snake (being careful not to prod it). Some keepers recommend gently touching the snake's head and neck with the hook to let the snake know that it isn't food.
Once they know that you are there and that you are neither food nor a threat, it is time to pick them up. Carefully move the hook under their body, about mid-way to a one-third-way from their head to their tail and gently life the snake using the hook, moving them out of the vivarium or box.
Once out, you have a choice, either keep the snake elevated, using the snake hook to control where the snake goes, or alternatively, put the snake down on a flat surface. Doing so means that you are likely to lose control of the snake, so be extra careful (not that you shouldn't be exercising plenty of caution anyway...)
If you choose to do this, make sure you keep a close eye on their movements. Try to stay close to their tail-end, using the snake hook to move their head in a safer direction. When it is time to put them back in their home, use a similar technique to how you got them out. Lightly grab the tail, and slide the hook under their mid-section, picking them up and putting them head first into their home so they can see where they are going.
Getting Bitten
No matter how hard you try, it is likely that at some point in your snake-keeping career, you are going to get bitten. Hopefully, it won't be too bad but it is best to read up on what to do before you begin handling your snake. Usually, for non-venous snakes this will involve cleaning the wound with an antiseptic (either wipe, gel or wash), stemming any excessive blood flow (not likely) by applying pressure, and dressing the wound appropriately. Consult a good first aid manual to find out what to do BEFORE handling your snake. Do NOT try to drag the snake off your hand as this will cause the tearing of your hand muscles and skin. Instead, stay calm and gently apply pressure with your free finger and thumb behind the snake's jaw, causing it to release.
Keep Calm and Carry a Snake
Above all, keep calm. Providing your reptile is not venomous, there is little threat apart from a bit of a bad nibble. If you stay calm, your movements will be more smooth and calculated and therefore less likely to alarm your snake, triggering their defensive instincts which can lead to striking.
Looking after an aggressive snake can be challenging, but ultimately very rewarding. Not many keepers are up to it, but good handling of these snakes can be a point of pride as you are giving a difficult snake a loving home when it might not otherwise have ever found one.
Learn more about snake care in our blog, try our Royal python care sheet to get started.
Some snakes can be quite defensive, making handling them a challenging task. We have put together this helpful guide to make it easier for you.